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大濟 2015-01-15 07:49

"Dawn Wall" 攀登
Dawn Wall 的攀登是攀岩界大事,所以另開主題,重複之處請版主原諒。



--(以下摘自 b22377921)

Brett Lowell reports on Facebook with a great picture that Kevin Jorgeson has done the 16th Dyno 9a pitch meaning he is just three 60 metres 8a+' behind Tommy Caldwell. Later some ten pitches up to 7c are left before they will summit writing climbing history.

Two days ago, Kevin was a long way behind his partner Tommy Caldwell when he was going for his 11th go over seven days of pitch #15. For pitch #16, Tommy opted for the 8b+ Loop pitch meanwhile Kevin choose the Dyno 9a pitch.

In comparison to the previous hardest Big Walls and even multi pitches in the world, The Dawn Wall is just in another amazing league. 31 pitches in total out of which; Three 9a's (two for Kevin), ten between 8a+ and 8c. Taking into account that they have spent six years including being injured up there and that also most of the protection is trad gear, what they are about to do could be to set a new world record.





他們美國太平洋(加州)時間今天(1/14)下午3:25 全程完攀(臺灣時間1/15清晨6:25)。





kuanchung 2015-01-15 19:16




大濟 2015-01-16 00:25

Mountain Project 臉書的報導,裡面有一些有趣的統計數據,以及美國總統歐巴馬在推特(Twitter)對兩位攀登者的賀辭(可能是自有攀岩運動以來,第一位美國總統公開的讚揚攀岩者):

大濟 2015-01-18 10:07

為什麼 Dawn Wall 攀登會引起這麼多美國著名媒體的注意?(或別的國家的媒體注意,當然,臺灣的媒體不會有興趣)

有人在 Supertopo 論壇提出這個問題,質疑是贊助商搞出來的花樣。很多人也提出自己的看法或猜測,結果在 Yosemite 常年報導 El Capitan 大牆攀登的 Tom Evans 說出 “內幕”,很有趣,值得看,特別摘錄如下,值得一提的是,兩位攀登者在岩壁上時是拒絕採訪的(媒體想用手機採訪),理由:“we don't want to talk to anyone as we want to focus on the climbing."

基本上,這次 Dawn Wall 攀登之初並沒有在媒體上大聲喧嚷,一些戶外運動以及攀岩媒體是有報導,不過就是一般報導,除此之外,主流媒體根本沒有興趣,或根本不知道。

兩位攀登者起攀後,Tom Evans 也和尋常一般,每天到他固定拍照的地方拍 Dawn Wall 的進度,就像他平常每天報導 El Capitan 上所有攀登隊的進度一樣。直到有一天,紐約時報記者 John Branch 突然出現在現場,問了 Tom 一些 Dawn Wall 的事情,第二天,紐約時報頭版就刊出了 Dawn Wall 攀登照片。

John Branch 曾是普立茲新聞報導獎得主,他的 Dawn Wall 文章一旦在紐約時報刊出,別的主流媒體馬上跟進。之前,身為攀岩者的 Andrew Bisharat 也在國家地理雜誌登出一篇文章報導 Dawn Wall:

國家地理雜誌是國際知名專業報導媒體,它的報導當然會給主流媒體 Dawn Wall 攀登的 “重要性” 參考價值。而本身是攀岩者的 Andrew 文章深淺具備,給了很多根本不懂攀岩的主流記者現成的報導角度和攀登歷史背景。

就這樣,Tom Evans 成了各方記者徵詢的對象,記者當然也要求採訪兩位攀登者(正在牆上)但遭拒,所以 Tom 反而成了焦點。當詢問記者越來越多, Tom 應付不暇了,這才打電話給兩位攀登者之一的贊助商 Adida 求助。

Adidas 的反應也是由慢到快,一開始對主流媒體的態度還半信半疑的,不過沒幾天就進入狀況了,馬上找了幾位著名的攀岩者(譬如 John Long,當年首次一日攀登 Nose 成員之一)和 Adidas 的公關人員組成對外新聞小組,Tom 當然也是成員之一,在這樣的背景下,主流媒體每天都有新的、精彩的圖片或影帶(Tom 負責)報導, Dawn Wall 攀登就自然的成了主流媒體每天更新的新聞,同時,新聞小組好像也成了兩位攀登者和媒體之間的防火牆,讓兩位攀登者能夠專心攀登,直到登頂。詳情請看下列原文。

p.s. 也許臺灣同好會問,那兩位攀登者在最難的幾個繩距(pitch)處,不是分開了嗎?那,一個人要爬的時候,是不是要有第三個人幫他們確保?

不是!他們分開的時候,任何一個人要爬,另一個人就下降或利用固定繩猶馬上升幫那人確保,反之亦然。簡言之,從頭到尾,從起攀到登頂,都是兩個人互相確保每一個繩距,而且每一個人都 free climbing 每一個繩距,這種繩伴精神讓人敬佩。

Rock & Ice 以及 Climbing 會出專刊,一些細節等專刊出來以後再整理節錄,與臺灣同好共享。

以下原文刊登於 Supertopo 論壇:

Jan 17, 2015 - 10:02am PT (from Tom Evans,

Good guess Clint! Actually I was sent to just take some shots and a few videos and I figured to spend evenings at the pool at the Yosemite View Hotel at the El Portal gate. I was shooting late in the evening a couple of days into the job when a guy wandered up and said "Are you Tom? Everyone said you are the guy I need to talk to." It was John Branch from the NY Times. We had a long chat and he took a lot of notes as I talk kinda fast when I speak about climbing. He left and next morning there was an article on the front page of the paper, quoting me and giving my ElCap Report contact information.

BOOM! It started! I awoke to emails from every conceivable network and news organization on the planet. They all came to me and suddenly I was the single information source for media, hungry for interviews and pictures. The requests always started the same... Hey Tom how are you doing? This is whoever and we understand that you have information about.... everything!!!

They all wanted a 4 minute interview with the climbers over their cell phone. And they wanted videos and pics too... all had deadlines of some sort. Right off Tommy and Kevin said NO, we don't want to talk to anyone as we want to focus on the climbing. Great..what was I to do now? I got on the horn to my Adidas Outdoor people in LA. At first they didn't quite get it... that this thing was about to explode into a huge event. I told them point blank that if we didn't get out front on this thing that someone else would and we would be left in the dust.

Adidas Outdoor swung into action and had John Long set up to do interview requests and Ted Distel to handle the videos and still shots, and Diane Kay to rout and manage the information coming from me. We quickly set up a drop box where the visual materials we had were downloaded and the media could resource anything they liked FOR FREE. That was the moment we took control of the event. I was busy like I have never been before in my life.

I would finally get to bed between midnight and 2am and get up at 4:30 or 5am to handle all the foreign requests. I would grab some junk food at the hotel store and hold up in the room doing phone interviews and directing information to LA. Fortunately, the weather got warm and the guys couldn't climb until late afternoon so I had the entire morning to answer media requests. I would try to get out of there by noon and escape to the meadow to shoot. I grabbed a bowl of chilli at the lodge after the shooting and race back to the room where I would do more media requests. I tried to get the report done before bed but some nights I just fell asleep in the chair and couldn't function as I was so tired. First thing in the morning I did the Report and took important emails as I was writing it.

ABC's GMA showed up early on and wanted interviews for the show and I got some TV exposure, if only for a few moments. From then on there was a line of TV media wanting to interview and tape me for this or that show. I had seen all this coming and went into my old talking mode to "Tourons at the Bridge." It worked and all the network people said I was a great interview and that I had "Great Hair!" Really! I said " you gotta be kidding me" They said that great hair was important on TV!!! Ha, Ha, I laughed until I was almost sick!!

Anyway the ElCap Report exploded too and that fed the frenzy. I got to saying, in answer to requests... read the days report first and if you have further questions I will answer them.

The story got better and better with the trials and tribulations of Kevin and the support of Tommy. It was NOT a slow media time. The 6th day of the story the Paris killings and the plane crash took the story off the front pages and it languished for a time.. but it was a long running story and I knew the media would be back in time because it was the only "feel good story" in the news. Sure enough it came back and went even more viral.. you know the rest.

One of the reporters from a San Jose paper, Lisa Fernandez, sent me a note after the story had finished, with the subject line. Do you know why this was such a big story? The message said "Because of you! You had good interviews and you had information available FREE to all the media and you kept the story alive" I was very flattered of course, but replyed that the Adidas Outdoor Team did all that stuff and they were the ones who made things happen for the media. I did get some good shots and videos and Ted was able to merge them into a good video that R&I ran daily on their website.

Today I am home and when I looked at my email... there was not a single message about the climb.. no requests at all! It was fun while it lasted and I was running with some fast company but that is the way these things go.. they sweep in like a storm and run their course and then sweep out just as fast as they came in. Now I am back to being an obscure photographer and blog writer. But it was some adventure... some adventure!

大濟 2015-01-19 11:22


這個單純的心是 Tom Evans。Tom 是一個平凡的70歲老人,以前攀岩,但也只不過是一個平庸的攀岩者,像您,像我,但他用單純的心看 Dawn Wall 攀登,他用單純的角度向媒體解釋什麼是攀岩,他用單純樸實的取景報導 Dawn Wall 攀登,他向媒體說明 Dawn Wall 攀登單純的目的和意義。Tom Evans 只是一個平凡的老頭,但 Dawn Wall 的攀登經過他的詮釋,成為前幾天美國主流媒體的頭版新聞。

這次主流媒體的報導相當正面以及寫實,最大的功臣就是 Tom Evans。

主流媒體的報導結束了,從現在起,一般大眾對 Dawn Wall 的攀登很快就會遺忘,對這點,Tom 說:

“It doesn't matter if the story is gone in a week ... it had its moment in the sun and the world got to watch something uplifting and wonderful for a time, in a world covered in blood and death. We all needed a breather from all that horror.” - 摘自

個人感想:Dawn Wall 的攀登也許會被一般大眾忘諸腦後,但 Dawn Wall 的攀登給了 Yosemite 比身為 “攀岩勝地” 更重要的事 - 尊重。Dawn Wall 的攀登被稱之為 “現存最難的大牆攀登”,但對很多攀岩者而言,其意義不在於此。很多攀岩者一輩子都無法爬到 5.14,但Dawn Wall 攀登重新喚起他們對攀岩運動的尊重,對 Yosemite 的尊重,以及對身為攀岩者追求攀岩純真本質的一種驕傲和自我尊重。

這是 Tom Evans 和兩位攀登者 Tommy Caldwell 和 Kevin Joegeson 最大的貢獻。

b223717921 2015-01-23 04:12

應該是Dawn Wall.麻煩版主更正.!

大濟 2015-01-23 10:24

謝謝 b223717921!這是很大的錯別字,內容部份的錯字我自己來更正,標題的部份就必須麻煩板主了。

等一下 -- 試了一下 “進入進階模式”,發現可以改標題,就把它也修正了,不用麻煩板主了。

再次謝謝 b223717921,寫錯這個字是很不禮貌的事,謝謝您的提醒。

大濟 2015-01-23 10:30

發現另一個錯字:Adida,應該是 Adidas,也一併修正。

慚愧,在美國十幾年一事無成,連英文也沒學好,這些錯字自己看了很多遍都沒發覺,幸虧 b223717921 提醒。

Dawn Wall 兩位攀岩者持續受到媒體的注意,他們前幾天上了 Ellen DeGeneres 的節目接受訪問,聽說這是兩位完攀後,第一次上電視 “坐下來” 接受訪問:

Ellen DeGeneres 是美國傳播文化界名人(她主持上屆的奧斯卡頒奬典禮),她的訪問給了 Dawn Wall 以及攀岩這個運動(至少在美國)很正面的影響。

也有人開始討論以後誰有可能、或要多久以後這條路線才會被 second ascent,裡面有一些有趣的討論,有空再把這些資訊貼上來。

個人這幾天倒是在想一件事:世界盃和 Dawn Wall 攀登不同的意義在那?世界級人工岩場攀岩比賽自1988年開辦以來有20幾年了,但比賽對攀岩運動的影響好像一直沒有定論。20幾年來,雖然產生了很多的世界冠軍,攀岩難度也不停的提昇,甚至吸引無數的人參與攀岩運動,比賽場數也增加了,可是比賽似乎越來越讓一般人沒有參與感,相對的,大牆攀登,尤其是大牆的 free climbing 大多默默無名,提出來的大概就那麼幾個,譬如 Lynn Hill 1993 的 free Nose,可是這些寥寥可數的成就對攀岩界的鼓舞和激勵作用,甚至媒體的曝光度好像都遠大於比賽。

也許吧,Dawn Wall 之所以受到媒體的青睞,甚至任何大牆攀登透過媒體傳播出來的意義,就像攀登者之一 Kevin Jorgenson 在下來後隔天接受 Today News 訪問時自問自答的說:

"Tommy and I have been thinking a lot about what is it about this climb that is capturing everyone’s attention? I think with all opportunities it is for everyone to find their own Dawn Wall, if you will. We had our project that we saw through to the end. What’s yours?”

真的,誰都可以擁有自己的 Dawn Wall。但,比賽不行。


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