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clk 2005-05-25 05:58

Articles in hand injury of rock climbers
To correspond some previous topic about UIAA youth competition, here is some rock climbing related hand injury articles that I searched through our library. But I can’t type Chinese so I can’t post Chinese translation. The attachment size is limited to only 256k, so I can’t post the whole pdf file but just the abstracts.
I hope these may help some people who are interested. There are more than hundreds of articles related to mountain climbing medicine in the PubMed web site: I am studying at a medical institute so I can access to most of them. Email me if you would like to read more.


Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers.

Schweizer A.

Klinik Permanence, Bern, Switzerland.

Rock climbers are often using the unique crimp grip position to hold small ledges. Thereby the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joints are flexed about 90 degrees and the distal interphalangeal joints are hyperextended maximally. During this position of the finger joints bowstringing of the flexor tendon is applying very high load to the flexor tendon pulleys and can cause injuries and overuse syndromes. The objective of this study was to investigate bowstringing and forces during crimp grip position. Two devices were built to measure the force and the distance of bowstringing and one device to measure forces at the fingertip. All measurements of 16 fingers of four subjects were made in vivo. The largest amount of bowstringing was caused by the flexor digitorum profundus tendon in the crimp grip position being less using slope grip position (PIP joint extended). During a warm-up, the distance of bowstringing over the distal edge of the A2 pulley increased by 0.6mm (30%) and was loaded about 3 times the force applied at the fingertip during crimp grip position. Load up to 116N was measured over the A2 pulley. Increase of force in one finger holds by the quadriga effect was shown using crimp and slope grip position.

PMID: 11165286 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

Biomechanical effectiveness of taping the A2 pulley in rock climbers.

Schweizer A.

Spital Bauma, Switzerland.

Circular taping around the proximal phalanx is frequently used by rock climbers to treat tenosynovitis and to prevent injuries to the A2 pulley. The aim of this study was to determine the biomechanical effectiveness of such taping. Devices were built to measure physiological bowstringing in vivo, and to determine the force of bowstringing as well as the force applied to the pulley tape. Two kinds of taping on 16 fingers were measured during the typical crimp grip position. Taping over the A2 pulley decreased bowstringing by 2.8% and absorbed 11% of the force of bowstringing. Taping over the distal end of the proximal phalanx decreased bowstringing by 22% and absorbed 12% of the total force. Circular taping is minimally effective in relieving force on the A2 pulley. It is probably ineffective in preventing pulley ruptures.

PMID: 10763736 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

Finger pulley injuries in extreme rock climbers: depiction with dynamic US.

Klauser A, Frauscher F, Bodner G, Halpern EJ, Schocke MF, Springer P, Gabl M, Judmaier W, zur Nedden D.

Department of Radiology, University Hospital Innsbruck, Anichstrasse 35, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria.

PURPOSE: To determine the ability of dynamic ultrasonography (US) to depict finger pulley injuries in extreme rock climbers. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Sixty-four extreme rock climbers (climbing levels 8-11 on a scale ranging from 1 to 11; Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) with finger injuries (75 symptomatic and 181 asymptomatic fingers) were examined by using US, with the transducer operating at 12 MHz. The distance between the flexor tendon and phalanx was evaluated in extension and forced flexion at the level of the A2 and A4 annular pulleys as an indicator of tendon bowstringing. A distance between the flexor tendon and phalanx greater than 1.0 mm was interpreted as positive for a pulley injury. US findings were compared with those of magnetic resonance imaging. Surgical correlation was available in seven cases. Statistical analysis was performed by using analysis of variance, the Student t test, and the Bonferroni method. RESULTS: US depicted 16 (100%) of 16 complete A2 pulley ruptures, nine (100%) of nine complete A4 pulley ruptures, six (86%) of seven surgically proved complete combined A2 and A3 pulley ruptures, and 15 (100%) of 15 incomplete A2 pulley ruptures. Measurement of distance between the flexor tendon and phalanx was significantly different among patient subsets without pulley ruptures and those with incomplete, complete, or complete combined pulley ruptures (P <.001). The sensitivity of US for depiction of finger pulley injuries was 98%, and specificity was 100%. CONCLUSION: Dynamic US allows excellent depiction of finger pulley injuries in extreme rock climbers.

PMID: 11867797 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

Overuse injuries in the elite rock climber.

Rohrbough JT, Mudge MK, Schilling RC.

Orthopaedic Surgery Service, Davis-Monthan Air Force Base, Tucson, AZ 85707-5300, USA.

Closed rupture of the flexor tendon sheath has been known to occur in the elite rock climbing population. However, only one study has investigated the prevalence of this entity. PURPOSE: To examine an elite climbing group in this country for the prevalence of pulley rupture and report on other commonly occurring injuries in the hand and elbow. METHODS: 42 elite rock climbers competing at the U.S. national championships were evaluated by an injury survey and concentrated examination of the hand and elbow. Manual testing for clinical bowstringing was done for each finger, by the same examiner. RESULTS: 11 subjects (26%) had evidence of flexor pulley rupture or attenuation, as manifested by clinical bowstringing. Injury to the PIP collateral ligament had occurred in 17 subjects (40%). Other commonly occurring injury syndromes are described. CONCLUSION: Our results and others suggest that closed traumatic pulley rupture occurs with significant frequency in this population. In addition, all subjects with this injury continued to climb at a high standard and reported no functional disability.

PMID: 10949000 [PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]

大濟 2005-05-25 20:49

只是建議:板主,能不能擴充一下或是想別的辦法(成立一個臺灣攀岩 “醫學” 資料庫?),把這些辛苦找來的資料(全文)納進臺灣攀岩資料庫中,以後的人也比較容易找資料?

ed512 2005-05-25 22:49


您現在看到這篇已經是在-- 運動傷害、柔軟度--分類討論類中




:) :)



:D :D

clk 2005-05-25 23:57

Just FYI:
The pdf files of most science articles are under 500kb. Unfortunately, most of them are also over the attachment limit 256kb here.

kevin 2005-05-26 00:33

To clk&大濟:


另,大濟有沒有興趣當某些版的版主呢?有意願的話請跟阿國(ed512)聯絡喔! :D

clk 2005-05-26 02:14

2 個附件
Some articles of climbers injury under 256 kb size.
I tried to attach the larger articles but it won't work.

大濟 2005-05-26 03:52

版主?哇靠,這千萬不行!太可怖了!Kevin 您不能這樣搞學長!一來我沒時間,當家庭煮夫是很忙的,當過家庭主婦的都知道,你們這些大男人不了解啦。二來我是電腦白癡(和鬍子差不多)。三來認識我的人都知道,我這個人最沒有責任感,說說有的沒的還可以,就是不能承擔責任。版主?太可怖了!責任很大的呦!是不是我話說的太多、作事太少?要收斂,保證收斂!


放上一篇德文的研究(摘要是英文)。沒人翻沒關係,先收錄起來 (檔案:1MB,疑!好像還是放不上去?)。眾多檔案是不是?沒關係,將來有時間的話,小弟英文雖不好,也許還可以翻個一、二篇。

kevin 2005-05-26 04:26

To clk&大濟:

當「翻譯組」組員也不錯喔! :-)

大濟 2005-05-26 06:13

“組員” 聽起來不錯,比什麼 “XX主” 好多了。可以考慮。


所有時間均為中原標準時間。現在的時間是 20:44

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