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搜尋: 文章作者: clk
討論區: 國際攀岩資訊 2005-08-26, 06:36
回覆: 1
檢視: 7042
作者 clk
[國際攀岩資訊] Free soloists, who are they?

Free-soloists in modern era of rock climbing, who are they?
Here I can only name a few. Mostly they did their works in the Yosemite valley. They all contribute a piece of history in rock climbing.

John Bachar
Peter Croft
Derek Hersey (died)
Dan Osman (died)
Alex Huber
Dean Potter
討論區: 龍洞第一洞 2005-08-26, 04:52
回覆: 15
檢視: 13913
作者 clk
Hello Da-Chi: I think that Mr. 小壁虎 read my message wrong and is totally o...

Hello Da-Chi:
I think that Mr. 小壁虎 read my message wrong and is totally opposite of what I mean.
I think this climber is a hidden dragon and a potential star. Therefore should let the world share the pride of Taiwan.

Can you translate? I can’t type Chinese.

Thank you,
clk
討論區: 龍洞第一洞 2005-08-25, 06:45
回覆: 15
檢視: 13913
作者 clk
:best Bravo! There are only handful of people in the world can free-solo 5...

:best Bravo!
There are only handful of people in the world can free-solo 5.12c and they are all world-class famous. This climber in the photo may free-solo some classic routes in Yosemite and be given his credit for doing so. So the world can share the pride of climbers from Taiwan.

Need a vert...
討論區: 站務公告 2005-08-24, 13:44
回覆: 4
檢視: 12563
作者 clk
A-Kuo said Yesterday the whole day (my time in Portland 8/22 noon to even...

A-Kuo said

Yesterday the whole day (my time in Portland 8/22 noon to evening, your time in Taiwan 8/23, 3 am to 11 am)
Thank you
討論區: 龍洞第一洞 2005-08-24, 13:37
回覆: 15
檢視: 13913
作者 clk
Yeah, very crazy! :shock: :shock: :shock:

Yeah, very crazy!

:shock: :shock: :shock:
討論區: 站務公告 2005-08-24, 05:09
回覆: 4
檢視: 12563
作者 clk
server

A-Kuo:
Is the server turned off sometimes? I can only connect sometimes but not always. I can’t connect yesterday and some other days before. This problem seems occur since the last virus attack of your server (two-three month ago). Any information let me know.
Thanks.

clk
討論區: 龍洞第一洞 2005-08-24, 04:50
回覆: 15
檢視: 13913
作者 clk
Wow! Great climber in the photo (is he on-belay?) .

Wow! Great climber in the photo (is he on-belay?) .
討論區: 裝備討論區 2005-06-22, 01:58
回覆: 4
檢視: 14715
作者 clk
The Trango equalizer is very light weight (and very expensive too, 30 bucks...

The Trango equalizer is very light weight (and very expensive too, 30 bucks a piece) and is designed for alpine climbing. The Spectra webbing has very high tensile strength (~ 23kN from Blue Water web site) but in my experience it is not very abrasion resistance. For top-roping, a similar equaliz...
討論區: 攀岩醫學檔案(運動傷害、柔軟度) 2005-05-26, 08:08
回覆: 0
檢視: 10518
作者 clk
High Altitude Illness

Some review articles about high altitude illness. I know the readers here are mostly rock climbers. But may eventually someday few of you want to climb big wall of the Great Trango tower or steep alpine face of Ama Dablam. These are good to know.
討論區: 攀岩醫學檔案(運動傷害、柔軟度) 2005-05-26, 03:14
回覆: 8
檢視: 15886
作者 clk
Some articles of climbers injury under 256 kb size. I tried to attach the l...

Some articles of climbers injury under 256 kb size.
I tried to attach the larger articles but it won't work.
討論區: 攀岩醫學檔案(運動傷害、柔軟度) 2005-05-26, 00:57
回覆: 8
檢視: 15886
作者 clk
Just FYI: The pdf files of most science articles are under 500kb. Unfortun...

Just FYI:
The pdf files of most science articles are under 500kb. Unfortunately, most of them are also over the attachment limit 256kb here.
討論區: 攀岩醫學檔案(運動傷害、柔軟度) 2005-05-25, 06:58
回覆: 8
檢視: 15886
作者 clk
Articles in hand injury of rock climbers

To correspond some previous topic about UIAA youth competition, here is some rock climbing related hand injury articles that I searched through our library. But I can’t type Chinese so I can’t post Chinese translation. The attachment size is limited to only 256k, so I can’t post the whole pdf fil...
討論區: 攀岩醫學檔案(運動傷害、柔軟度) 2005-05-21, 07:38
回覆: 6
檢視: 14514
作者 clk
I am studying at a medical school, so I found the article (4). see the pd...

I am studying at a medical school, so I found the article (4).
see the pdf attachment. Hope that help!
討論區: 心情、遊記、感想、記事...... 2005-04-12, 09:41
回覆: 7
檢視: 18603
作者 clk
Good story! Back in a few issues of climbing magazine, there was an artic...

Good story!

Back in a few issues of climbing magazine, there was an article giving some beta to climb the Tasmania Totem pole. It said the leader may use a cheater stick to clip the first bolt and pull self over on the rappelling rope to avoid getting wet. But I don’t know how long the stick can ...
討論區: 攀登紀錄、概況 2005-01-19, 20:05
回覆: 14
檢視: 27422
作者 clk
康明哲的攀岩之旅 系列一(講座)

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE> 不好意思,就讓路人甲(我)替這場演講作一個小小的註解。
這場演講的主題是阿爾卑斯式攀登。這種攀登形式是結合了登山與攀岩等面向的技術性活動。攀登時需考量高山氣候多變的不穩定性、在偌大的岩壁上判斷路線的精準度以及克服垂降路線不明確的風險。
演講中介紹的路線位於北美的落磯山群裡,湖...
討論區: 攀登紀錄、概況 2005-01-19, 20:05
回覆: 14
檢視: 27422
作者 clk
康明哲的攀岩之旅 系列一(講座)

Sorry I brought it up.
Alpine climbing was originated in the Alps. “Alpine” means alpine climate. Alpine zone usually is above timberline and has ice year around even in summer months. Glaciation is also a special feature of alpine climate. It is what happens in the Alps. However, in the oth...
討論區: 攀登紀錄、概況 2005-01-19, 20:05
回覆: 14
檢視: 27422
作者 clk
康明哲的攀岩之旅 系列一(講座)

A-Kuo is correct.
Big wall rock climbing had been developed into a special style of rock climbing originated from Yosemite. Special equipments are also developed for its need; such as haul bag, portaledge, bolt kit, and static rope haul line etc.
Pushing the big wall rock climbing to an even more...
討論區: 攀登紀錄、概況 2005-01-19, 20:05
回覆: 14
檢視: 27422
作者 clk
康明哲的攀岩之旅 系列一(講座)

I hope I don’t offend anyone.
I brought it up for the communication in climber community.

If I climb some big walls in the dry area in Utah, Arizona or Colorado, and I tell the climbing community that I “alpine climb” the Zion big wall, they will be confused and not understand what I am talking a...
討論區: 心情、遊記、感想、記事...... 2005-01-19, 20:04
回覆: 6
檢視: 16938
作者 clk
一個人的攀岩旅行

Hi ed512:
That is interesting. I live in Portland for years. I could have take you in. I could even take you to Smith Rock.
I used to be car less, I remember in Dec. 1998 I took Greyhound bus to Yosemite. It took me two days and changed number of buses. I slept in dangerouse San Francisco downt...
討論區: 心情、遊記、感想、記事...... 2005-01-19, 20:04
回覆: 6
檢視: 16938
作者 clk
一個人的攀岩旅行

A-Kuo:
Another memorable trip I had was..... my parentin Vancouver and I were planning to climb Mt. Slesse NE Buttress in 2000. Both of us were car less. But I do have a motorcycle. I rode from Portland with all gears to meet my friend in Vancouver, British Columbia. Riding motorcycle in cold au...
討論區: 裝備討論區 2005-01-19, 20:04
回覆: 9
檢視: 11086
作者 clk
Wild Country Helium勾環及快扣全球回收公告(2004,7,19)

Luckily, I don’t have any of the wild Country karabiners.
There was report of Wild Country flexible technical friends shaft break off on a fall many years ago. Don’t fall on Wild Country flexible friends.


clk
kuoc@ohsu.edu[addsig]
討論區: 裝備討論區 2005-01-19, 20:04
回覆: 9
檢視: 11086
作者 clk
Wild Country Helium勾環及快扣全球回收公告(2004,7,19)

I did not recall what happen. But it was a manufacturer failure where the cable of friend attachment breaks off from a Wild Country flexible friend.
The friend placement in the picture shown will be a leader’s fault. The friend places in shallow crack like the picture shown (I am assuming the dar...
討論區: 裝備討論區 2005-01-19, 20:04
回覆: 5
檢視: 14013
作者 clk
斷掉的好朋友

It was a cable friend (flexible friends, so no shaft) break off. The cable attachment to the friend body is always a weak point. Flexible friends can be placed in horizontal crack and the cable should not break off when catch a fall. It is a manufacturer’s fault if the cable breaks off. For the ...
討論區: 2004年比賽 2005-01-19, 20:04
回覆: 7
檢視: 4935
作者 clk
2004 總統盃抱石賽成績公告

Can any one show some pictures of the bouldering competition?
討論區: 新手入門 2005-01-19, 20:04
回覆: 15
檢視: 35936
作者 clk
麻煩老手推薦新手攀岩裝備!!!

Sorry I can\'t type Chinese.
I am size 32 and it is between size M and L. In summer I use size M but in winter I use size L. But you need to have two harnesses.
REI make great harnesses for reasonable price ( I believe REI harnesses are actually made by Misty Mountain, a good harness manufacture)...
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