[anmin]

相關文章原發表於 主題=\'Wild Country Helium勾環及快扣全球回收公告(2004,7,19)\'
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clk: 2004-07-21 10:27

Luckily, I don’t have any of the wild Country karabiners.
There was report of Wild Country flexible technical friends shaft break off on a fall many years ago. Don’t fall on Wild Country flexible friends.

clk
kuoc@ohsu.edu
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To travel in all directions, I learn whatever skill necessary.

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anmin: 2004-07-21 18:16

請問文章中提到當初斷裂的 friend 是否是如圖的方法放置的? 因為我看過其他網站的 friend 的斷裂照片, 是因為當初是使用這種危險放置法才斷掉的.
摘錄 Wild Country 技術文件:

其他網站 friend 斷裂討論:
broken friend

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clk: 2004-07-22 08:35

I did not recall what happen. But it was a manufacturer failure where the cable of friend attachment breaks off from a Wild Country flexible friend.
The friend placement in the picture shown will be a leader’s fault. The friend places in shallow crack like the picture shown (I am assuming the dark shadow area is solid rock), if the leader falls, the friend will likely be popping off from the crack, but the friend’s cable should not break off. In shallow vertical crack like this, I would use stoppers pulling downward.

clk
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To travel in all directions, I learn whatever skill necessary.

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anmin: 2004-07-22 11:37

在淺直裂隙的場合cam放到底friend會脫出的機理為何? 理論上cam在這種情形根本無法轉動以減緩衝力(cam接觸面沒有失敗的話cam是只能向前進不能向後退), 除非stem/shaft夠強壯能擋得住折彎的力量, 或是cam接觸的岩石被扯破, 不然應該是要斷掉才合理, 就看不同的設計斷的位置不一樣而已.
可參考我前篇連結內的討論.
至於如果真的是正常使用仍斷掉, 則是非常嚴重的問題. 照標準如果friend strength rating是14kN, 略高於factor=2墜落的力量(約=10kN), 如果只用這一個支點又形成定滑輪的機械效果, 那力量就是兩倍, 約20kN, 再加上一些非理想因素, 單一個friend或其他UIAA認證的支點器材應該正常使用下至少可以撐住factor=1的墜落才正常.

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