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舊 2012-04-12, 15:42   #21
anmin
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註冊日期: 2003-05
住址: 太陽數過來第三顆石頭
文章: 190
anmin
我個人的看法, 如先前提到的...
> 我個人認為只要能合理的使用, bolt應該可以給從事其它活動的人使用. <
但使用攀登用bolt做走繩固定點是否算合理使用, 是否會傷害bolt, 有可能會, 也有可能不會, 我對這方面完全是外行, 但目前我還沒看到足以說服我說 "不會" (當然也沒有 "一定會") 的分析. 至於要偏樂觀看還是偏悲觀看, 沒有足以說服大眾的分析之前, 可能還是個人的選擇.

勇敢的挑戰精神很好, 不過請注意基本的安全設施, 尤其這些器材不是你自己, 而是別人也在用的時候.
這邊引幾句走繩產品網站的話, 請大家參考...
http://www.gibbonslacklines.com/us/i...389&Itemid=249
>

I have seen videos with people doing jumps, flips and other crazy stuff, is this safe?

Gibbon Slacklines are to be used at your OWN RISK. Extreme slacklining and tricklining can be dangerous and these athletes have trained for years with ***appropriate safety equipment***. Know your limits and stay safe. Gibbon Slacklines are NOT intended for highlining and should never be set up higher than 3 feet from the ground.
<


http://www.slacklineexpress.com/products.htm

>


Locking Carabiners

For when you need life critical security, locking carabiners are the only way to go. Steel ones are highly recommended for highline applications.
....

Highline Specific Equipment

Need some gear to get started into highlining? We can help. First though, don't get yourself killed. Read our highline article and seek in-person training.<


請點進去看...
http://www.slacklineexpress.com/highline.htm
>
....
Normally a rock climber can use a couple trademark techniques and go years without using advanced systems, this isn't the case with highlining. Highlining turns most of our rockclimbing rigging 90 degrees off of center and adds extra forces that we normally aren't worried about. Highliners also need to understand advanced rigging techniques and equipment to backup and supplement your normal slackline system because of the loads involved, which are much higher than recreational climbing equipment was designed to accomodate and still offer an adequate margin of safety.
...
What do you need to know?

Rigging: To rig a highline you need to be fully capable at creating complex SRENE anchors that are built to EXPECT the normal worst case scenario loads. If you don't know what equalization and non extending anchors are, your in for a world of hurt unless you have a rigging mentor to create a foundation of understanding necessary to take it beyond that level. You also need to understand the physics behind slacklines. Slacklines can produce amazingly high loads on anchors, they have snapped fresh and well placed 3/8" bolts and have caused fully rated climbing cams to fail from being overloaded. Most slackers prefer to set bolts instead of climbing gear. Reason one is because good bolts are great for safety and multidirectional, reason two is that slacklines produce loads so high normal lead climbing gear might no longer be suitable for life saving duty, thus making that $60 cam no longer safe for lead climbing. This also isn't the place to learn to place bolts or what a good nut placement is, slacklines represent the worst load scenarios for bolts due to the angles involved. I'll sum it up by saying that the angle to the load essentially creates a levering force that multiplies the load. A 160 lbs slacker can easily create 1,600 lbs of tension just standing still on a slackline, when he takes a leashed, that load will jump higher.
....
A note on carabiners: Each and every carabiner manufacturer we talked to each recommended we never reuse slackline carabiners for life saving use; slacklines put a high static load which is rough on equipment which is often designed for sudden impact so they stretch during impact, then stretch back.
Under a slackline, that doesn't happen, it stretches and stays that way until you un-rig. Don't believe me? Set a slackline nice and tight, put someone on it, then try and open the gate on a carabiner, it won't open because the biner has stretch that tight against the gate. Bottom line, dedicate any of your gear that holds the main system tension for slacklines, if using a backup system that isn't tightly tensioned, that part could be reused for other purposes of course. We recommend you invest in some steel rescue carabiners for this reason; they are designed for higher loads, that and bolt hangers won't chew into them like they will do to aluminum while your surfing the line. Instead of carabiners some people also recommend industrial rigging equipment such as steel shackles that are rated for 20,000 lb test or greater. While I haven't personally felt the need for these just yet, they aren't a bad idea to look into.
Anchoring gear: If your planning to place bolts, make sure that the landowner or access situation allows it. To place bolts, you'll need the usual bolting gear. As I already mentioned, 3/8" bolts have been snapped so there is a strong preference for large 1/2" bolts, 3 on each end, all placed where they can easily be equalized and are all in solid rock. If bolts are forbidden bite the bullet and consider dedicating whatever climbing gear you need to rig the anchors as full time highline gear. Basically over rig the hell out of the anchors because it will be seeing 1500-2000 lb of tension or possibly more depending on length and how you bail onto it and you need a safety margin well over that amount. <

(重點.. 鉤環請用鋼製的, 用來走繩用的鉤環和支點等裝備不要再拿來做確保生命使用, 如果要打bolt, 請每邊打3個13mm(1/2吋)以上...)


請注意章醫師附的 "走繩受力計算機", 網站上說明的很清楚, 是提供 "最低受力" 之計算.

此文章於 2012-04-12 15:58 被 anmin 編輯.
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