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舊 2003-06-23, 10:06   #1
chao
攀岩癌症患者
 
註冊日期: 2000-07
文章: 619
chao
攀岩名詞解釋(On-sight、Redpoint)

一般的定義:

「On-sight」:事前不知道該路線的攀爬資訊,第一次爬該路線就無墜落成功\地完攀。
Climbing a route for the first time and not falling, without having been given any previous information concerning the route.

「Redpoint」:事前曾練習爬過該路線,以先鋒攀登的方式、無墜落地完攀該路線。
To successfully climb a route on lead, without falling, after practice or rehearsal of required sequence.



較嚴謹的定義:

「On-sight」:定義同上,要自己掛快扣。

「Redpoint」:定義同上,要自己掛快扣。
To lead a route, clipping protection as you go, without falling or resting on pro.

「Flash」:定義同on-sight,要自己掛快扣,事前可以知道攀爬資訊(例如看別人爬、問別人怎爬)
to climb a route first try without ever having touched the route, but with the aid of beta.

「Pinkpoint」:定義同on-sight,快扣已掛在上面,只須把繩子掛進快扣中即可。
To lead (without falling) a climb that has been pre-protected with anchors rigged with carabiners.



其它:

「Hangdogging」:爬路線中途,會利用繩子受力休息。
”Climbing” a route, usuallying bolt to bolt, with the aid of the rope to hang and rest.
When a leader hangs from a piece of protection to rest, then continues on without lowering back to the ground; not a free ascent.


參考資料:
Eric J. Horst, 「How to climb 5.12」, 1997
Heather Reynolds Sagar, 「Climbing your Best」,2001
John Long, 「How to Rock Climb!」, 1998



如有錯誤或誤解意義的地方,請不吝指教~



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When I have a little time, I climb;
and if any is left, I eat and sleep.

「攀岩星球」上只住著兩種人,一種是在攀岩的人;
另一種是爬累了正在休息的人。


<font size=1>[ 這篇文章修改由: chao 在 2003-06-14 16:27 ]</font>

<font size=1>[ 這篇文章修改由: shin 在 2003-06-15 04:42 ]</font>
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When I have a little time, I climb;
and if any is left, I eat and sleep.

「攀岩星球」上只住著兩種人,一種是在攀岩的人;
另一種是爬累了正在休息的人。
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