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舊 2006-07-17, 17:22   #5
wanghh
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註冊日期: 2006-06
文章: 14
wanghh 正向著好的方向發展
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作者: wanghh
  • 開發、維護新路線時將以『安全性』以及『時代意義』做為考量依據。例如『Surprise』與『黑洞』因為其代表了傳統攀登方式的重要里程碑以及以整體而言,傳統攀登方式仍然相當安全,所以決議恢復其『自然狀態』,將路線上原有 bolt 移除,並重新安裝上方垂降點。

(註:此項共識歡迎各方大德踴躍提出意見、共同找出屬於龍洞的『攀登倫理』、以及『永續價值』)
關於Surprise,來自Matt的論點,提供給各位當作參考:
『I feel the School Gate and entire Front Door area is everyone's "introduction" or "opening scene" to Long Dong climbing. It sets the tone for what to expect. In the case of visitors (and this means Taiwanese as well as foreigners), their first look at LD routes will very likely be on that rock. If bolts are on Surprise, it gives a feeling of convenience, development, a European-style approach to bolting every good climb. Some would be happy to see that; some would feel disappointed (guaranteed your average trad climber who came from overseas to visit LD would be disappointed). However, if there are plenty of new bolts on other routes nearby, yet Surprise is clean, I think it leaves a good feeling and even "announcement" of sorts that climbers here have pride in the natural resource, and good sport routes can exist (with good bolts, even) alongside good cracks without bolts. If some people feel they lost something because they can't lead Surprise on bolts, then I hope at least as many others would be motivated to learn to place gear. I think it sends a good message to newcomers about the ethics of LD, which seem to be settling into a good combination of both bolted and deliberately non-bolted routes.』

簡短翻譯如下(若有錯誤,請以原文為主):
我個人認為『校門口』,是許多攀岩者第一次接觸龍洞的岩壁,也是他們對龍洞的第一印象。不論是台灣人或是外國人,在校門口注意到的第一條路線,我想應是『Surprise』莫屬。如果Surprise裂隙上面是打上bolt的,那給人的感覺將會是很方便;有那種歐洲式、完整開發的運動攀登區域的感覺。有些攀岩者會為此感到相當高興;有些從國外來的傳統攀岩者則會不太認同。如果在這種狀況下,Surprise是維持傳統的面貌,而附近也可以同時找到相當多高品質的運動攀登路線,那給人的感覺將會是:『這裡的攀岩者是相當尊重自然資源的;而傳統與運動攀登是可以在此區域並存的;這是龍洞攀岩者得以自豪的一種尊重、一種和諧』。如果有人因為少了bolt的幫助而無法先鋒攀登Surprise,那我希望同時會有更多的人會因此激勵自己來學習傳統攀登的技巧。
我認為這樣的情形,可以更彰顯出龍洞的價值、以及此地的攀登倫理,是那種更可以將『傳統』與『運動』兼容並蓄、共存共榮的精神。
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