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舊 2012-12-18, 05:35   #4
大濟
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註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
文章: 689
大濟 是普普通通的會員
謝謝您, Danger!

先鋒墜落練習越早開始越好!原來的網站有 “階段性練習指南”(The Progression),將練習分為6個階段,循序漸進,我覺得針對初學攀岩者而言,這些階段性練習指南很好,將原文整理如下(Danger,可考慮翻成中文)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1838

The Progression

If you are very nervous about doing Clip-Drop Technique a good warm up is to climb a route that is well within your ability clipping the bolts as you would normally do. Make sure you go through the belay check process and also sit on a bolt low down to get confidence that all is well with the system. When you get to the anchors clip in and instantly let go with both hands.

Then you can progress through the following stages, only moving to the next stage when you are comfortable with the previous stage. You may feel some stress when moving through the stages but that is quite normal. Some may be tempted on their first Clip Drop to attempt to progress from clipping at shoulder height and dropping to climbing above the clipped bolt and taking proper leader falls. You run the risk of progressing too quickly by doing this.

The objective is to become comfortable and relaxed with the falling at each stage. If you push yourself too hard, maybe because of peer pressure or through machismo, and start taking proper lead falls but feel a lot of stress and fear whilst doing so, you aren't progressing.

The technique of Clip Drop can also be useful as an aid to getting yourself onto harder leads if you struggle to commit to trying hard routes (fear of failure). Choose a route beyond the grade you think you can onsight and set off to clip drop it! Afterwards you may as well work it til you get the redpoint! And just maybe you might think about trying to onsight that grade next time...


(一)First Stage - Tope rope falls. Climb up any route on a top rope. Take top rope, rope stretch falls at each bolt as you progress up the wall. Belay style: from snug belaying to a dynamic belay. This is good training for a belayer who isn't familiar with dynamic belays.


(二)Second Stage 
- Clip-Drop. Clip at shoulder height and drop. Belayer does very close snug belaying. Essentially rope stretch falls.


(三)Third Stage - 
Clip-Drop. Clip at shoulder height and drop. Belayer gives normal close belay. Falls are a little longer than at the Second Stage. Falls are rope stretch plus system slack. Climber doesn't slam in as still below bolt when falling. Use this stage for the belayer to practise and progress to a dynamic belay.


(四)Fourth Stage - 
Clip-Fall. Clip at shoulder height and make a move past the clipped bolt or clip at waist or in an 'awkward position' (e.g., choose route with lots of side-pulls and flagging moves) and then let go of the hold(s). Dynamic belay essential. Think about position of feet relative to rope and learn how to avoid being flipped or burning legs before next stage(註:雙腳必須在繩子後面或下面).


(五)Fifth Stage - 
Clip-Climb-Fall. Clip at waist height and climb until next bolt and then let go of the hold(s). Dynamic belay.

(六)Sixth Stage 
- Clip-Climb-Jump-Fall? Clip at waist height and climb up to next bolt, slap for next hold and fall trying to move up. Dynamic belay. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS BELOW 6th BOLT!(註:只要是超過一個 bolt 距離的先鋒墜落,一定要在第6個 bolt 以上高度練習)

原影片第2:40那段有我命名為 “Clip-Climb-Clip-Fail-Fall” 的第(七)種墜落練習,就是在 clip 下一個快扣時,故意沒有 clip 進,同時墜落,這種先鋒墜落距離最遠,也最危險,因為:

1)在 clip 時,先鋒抽繩已經非常多,繩子也給的非常鬆,墜落距離加大,往往可達5米以上;
2)因為繩子太鬆,墜落者的雙腳可能絆到繩子;
3)此時確保者的制動手常常不在制動位置,如用 ATC,確保者反應需特別沈著、冷靜、迅速。

這第七種墜落練習效果最好!但練習時,高度至少第8個快扣以上。

(於 Madison 家)
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