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舊 2003-07-06, 21:57   #15
Ta-Chi
輕度攀岩者
 
註冊日期: 2003-05
文章: 77
Ta-Chi
龍洞黃金谷New Project!

Yi-de & My Other Dear Friends:

1) You are right. My \"secret places\" are mostly at the Auditorium, which are on the guidebook, p. 148-151. My favorite is the big off-width crack on p. 148 which may have the potential to become one of the hardest trad routes at Longdome (5.12?). Its various variations also have potentials to become some other 5.13s sporty. Other \"likely\" routes on p. 149 and 150 entails aid-climbing to see if the quality of rock deserves to develop and, if it does, to set top anchors.

2) True, there are not too many \"tabula rasa\" remaining at Longdome. The Grand Audiotorium perhaps is the only one. But imaginations would help here -- there are lots of potential variations possible on many established routes that would yield quality, hard \"classics.\" [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_smile.gif[/img]

3) Before I bow out -- I have to, for I have had a busy summer, an intense partime job to do in addition to my study in order to \"eke out\" my family\'s livelihood. Besides, I do not think talking about 5.13 to be meaningful to me -- I am now just an old, well-rusted 5.9 climber trying to struggle to resume 5.11. But let me summarize what I think about of all the recent debates, if you guys allow me. Let me use the single issue of naming to express my otherwise multi-forked thoughts:

To name and to re-name are two different thing, each reflecting different ethics and culture. In any event, please try to think hard and smart, and to think freely whenever you are engaging in either behavior.

I have nothing to say about the behavior of renaming -- it\'s out of my comprehension. As to naming, I do have some comments: the names of Taiwan\'s routes have somehow been a little too \"masculine,\" a liitle too \"aggressive,\" and a liitle too \"martial-art like.\"

If naming represents the culture of Taiwan\'s climbing community, this means that we are becoming preoccupied by a relatively narrow mindset which in my opinion are too much of \"muscularity\" and \"competition\", and too much focusing on the issue of \"legitimacy\" (Is this having something to do with current Taiwan\'s social/political ethos?).

I would assume that one important quality of being a top climber as you are is the ability to imagine -- so, as you are going to name a route, try to imagine something else other than the climbing itself. Why? Becuase able to climb a route is not an end itself -- it is both an end and means, or an end that serves as a means to other ends. Thinking climbing ONLY would not reflect such a logic; instead, thinking BOTH climbing and other things -- the surrounding, the nature, the people, the song you have llistened to the night before, the stories that pup out in you mind while you are confronting a crux, the lists can go on and on -- would. To name a route in this way, the \"culture\" of yours opens up and the name followed would be more likely to truly reflect \"you\" and the the \"meaning\" of that route.

So, why not try something \"softer,\" \"more social,\" and \"cheerful,\" sometime even \"playful\" -- something \"unconventional?\" Years later, the name you give would not only become a mark of 5.13 or so, but would also remind people the \"life\" you have \"shared\" with them when that route was created.

And years later, you would smile when in retrospect, you are remined by that route\'s name that after all, climbing is just part of your life -- a devoted part but nothing more. You will have other goals to fulfill, and other achievements of yours will lead your life. That name, that \"more natural, softer, cheerful, and playful\" name will only remind you that you have had such a wonderful life -- a 5.13 or 5.14 life but with something more.

So long, my friends! Climb well, enjoyably, and safely. Hope to see some of you next year here in the US. [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_wink.gif[/img]
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