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舊 2013-08-18, 04:16   #2
大濟
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註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
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Climbing 網路版最近介紹在 “拼路線” (red point)當天過程中如何休息、伸展、吃什麼等等,以達到最好的效果:

http://www.climbing.com/skill/how-to...oint-attempts/

“拼路線” 是我的用法,原文的標題是:“How to Rest for Redpoint Attempts”,所以翻成 “拼路線” 則是因為運動攀登 red point 是指要企圖完攀攀登者的能力極限(甚至超過)路線。雖然如此,這篇文章可以看成如何在連續嘗試之間,讓自己保持最佳狀況,所以不僅拼路線,練習時也可以參考,讓效果達到最佳,這樣練習才有用。

原文重點很多也較長,部份重點整理如下:

1. Length of resting time: [R]ecent sports-science research has indicated that a 5:1 rest-to-work ratio is an excellent starting point . . . For sport climbers, a good starting point is to rest about 20 minutes between burns . . .

休息大概是 “拼路線” 時間的五倍,一般而言,運動攀登(先鋒/難度)大約20分鐘,抱石時間較短。

2. Posture: [R]esearch shows loss of core strength when seated in "prolonged lumbar flexion," or sitting hunched over on your crashpad. If you sit this way for 20 minutes or more at one time while out bouldering, you lose significant neurological signaling to your spine extensor muscles, and you will have to warm up again . . . Instead, sit against a support of some sort, with your back in a neutral position—not bent or twisted, but straight and relaxed. Research has also shown that active rest is best; rather than climbing more, simply take a 15-minute walk along the base of the crag.

休息時,切忌彎腰馱背(如國人喜歡坐在軟墊上雙手抱膝)。

3. Stretching: Contrary to popular belief, static stretching of the forearms might do more harm than good . . If you feel you must stretch, hold it for less than five seconds at a time . . One body part you should stretch just before climbing is your hips . . .You can stretch these muscles by standing with feet shoulder-width apart and toes pointed slightly out. Drop your butt straight down between your feet. Use your elbows on your inner thighs to push your legs outward as you sit deeply in the stretch.

靜態伸展不要超過5秒,可是胯部、臀部儘量伸展。

4. Nutrition: Recent sports-science studies suggest that carb intake during (not just before or after) longer bouts of high-intensity activity (like a full day of climbing) can improve performance, and consuming protein will assist in the short-term absorption of those carbs. Along with that, carbohydrate ingestion 10 to 60 minutes before climbing will ensure optimal performance. Simple sugars are best.

不斷補充碳水化合物(簡單的糖類最適合),少量的蛋白質可促進所攝取的碳水化合物吸收。
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