九月中旬「國際運動攀登協會」（IFSC）宣佈，將把抱石賽和速度賽排除，而先致力爭取難度賽（先鋒賽）單項搶進 2020 奧運。明年九月國際奧委會將作出決定。
國際奧委會運作受到很多 “枱面下” 因素的影響，運動本身的普及性、競賽的特徵和性質反而不是最關鍵的考量，我想，這也是 IFSC 決定先放棄抱石賽和速度賽的主因。無論如何，讓我們拭目以待，一旦難度攀登（先鋒攀登）列入2020奧運，這將會對國內運動攀登環境、市場、訓練方法、和制度都帶來一定的衝擊。
Lead Climbing Only For 2020 Olympic Bid
By Dougald MacDonald
9/27/12 – The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has announced that its bid for climbing to enter the 2020 Olympic Games will focus exclusively on lead climbing. The IFSC will pursue neither bouldering nor speed climbing for the first Olympics with modern climbing.
The announcement was made at a press conference at the conclusion of the World Championships in Paris in mid-September. The IFSC also confirmed that two International Olympic Committee representatives had attended the finals of the World Championships.
The next major step for climbing’s Olympic bid comes in December, when the IFSC will make a formal presentation to the IOC Program Commission in December. The IOC will make its final decision on new sports for the 2020 Games in September 2013.
Explaining its decision to focus on lead climbing, the IFSC said it was forced to make a choice because of “the existing limit in terms of athletes” in the Olympics.
Lead climbing, the IFSC said, “is the historical and traditional climbing discipline. It is the expression of climbing most commonly perceived by the public, and a popular event among climbers and non-climbers. Lead events have also the most universal representation, and is the discipline that a majority of our national federations indicated as their favorite…and TV experts pointed out they need the height challenge.”
However, the IFSC added, “we do not exclude the fact that one day the three disciplines will be represented at the Olympic Games!”
底下則為 IFSC 官網報導：
Marco Scolaris (President of the IFSC) announced that IFSC proposed LEAD for both men and women for the 2020 Olympic Games, confirming the visit of two observers from the IOC during the two-day-finals.
"Lead is the historical and traditional climbing discipline. It is the expression of climbing most commonly perceived by the public and a popular event among climbers and non-climbers. Lead events have also the most universal representation and is the discipline that a majority of our national federations indicated as their favorite. Lead brings athletes beyond vertical in a continuous gravity challenge, and TV experts pointed out they need the height challenge. The choice of one discipline only is the result of the existing limit in terms of athletes. However we do not exclude the fact that one day the 3 disciplines will be represented at the Olympic Games!".
Created in 2007, the IFSC has spent its first years to build up a dynamic but solid structure, based on principles of good governance, universality, equal opportunities, transparency ; spectacular events ruled by highest standard of rules ; athletes inclusion in the IF decision-making processes at all levels ; anti-doping policies and athletes health and integrity protection. The potentiality for media interest and sponsor support is constant, exposure is increasing. The trend is upward, like in a climb progression is under control, staying true to the core values of the sport.
"The IFSC believes that the inclusion of sport climbing would benefit the Olympic Games by bringing a passionate young audience to the Games. Sport Climbing speaks to young people and gets them involved in a sport they can practice for the rest of their lives. It also speaks to each of us: men and women, boys and girls, kids, elders and paraclimbers... all play in and on the same field. Sport climbing is also unique as it is a vertical sport which uses body and mind to climb. Apparel and tools only exist to protect the climber if gravity wins: human beings are not birds, we can (in life chronological order) crawl, swim, climb, walk, run, jump, but not fly. World up is the IFSC motto...because humans are all natural born climbers. ", said M. Scolaris.
The next step in the Olympic bid is now a presentation to the IOC Program Commission in December in Lausanne, The final decision on the possible inclusion of a new sport in the 2020 Olympic Games, following the possible exclusion of a sport currently in the program, will be taken by the IOC in September 2013, during the Session in Buenos Aires.
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