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舊 2015-01-18, 11:07   #4
大濟
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註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
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大濟 是普普通通的會員
為什麼 Dawn Wall 攀登會引起這麼多美國著名媒體的注意?(或別的國家的媒體注意,當然,臺灣的媒體不會有興趣)

有人在 Supertopo 論壇提出這個問題,質疑是贊助商搞出來的花樣。很多人也提出自己的看法或猜測,結果在 Yosemite 常年報導 El Capitan 大牆攀登的 Tom Evans 說出 “內幕”,很有趣,值得看,特別摘錄如下,值得一提的是,兩位攀登者在岩壁上時是拒絕採訪的(媒體想用手機採訪),理由:“we don't want to talk to anyone as we want to focus on the climbing."

基本上,這次 Dawn Wall 攀登之初並沒有在媒體上大聲喧嚷,一些戶外運動以及攀岩媒體是有報導,不過就是一般報導,除此之外,主流媒體根本沒有興趣,或根本不知道。

兩位攀登者起攀後,Tom Evans 也和尋常一般,每天到他固定拍照的地方拍 Dawn Wall 的進度,就像他平常每天報導 El Capitan 上所有攀登隊的進度一樣。直到有一天,紐約時報記者 John Branch 突然出現在現場,問了 Tom 一些 Dawn Wall 的事情,第二天,紐約時報頭版就刊出了 Dawn Wall 攀登照片。

John Branch 曾是普立茲新聞報導獎得主,他的 Dawn Wall 文章一旦在紐約時報刊出,別的主流媒體馬上跟進。之前,身為攀岩者的 Andrew Bisharat 也在國家地理雜誌登出一篇文章報導 Dawn Wall:

http://adventureblog.nationalgeograp...st-free-climb/

國家地理雜誌是國際知名專業報導媒體,它的報導當然會給主流媒體 Dawn Wall 攀登的 “重要性” 參考價值。而本身是攀岩者的 Andrew 文章深淺具備,給了很多根本不懂攀岩的主流記者現成的報導角度和攀登歷史背景。

就這樣,Tom Evans 成了各方記者徵詢的對象,記者當然也要求採訪兩位攀登者(正在牆上)但遭拒,所以 Tom 反而成了焦點。當詢問記者越來越多, Tom 應付不暇了,這才打電話給兩位攀登者之一的贊助商 Adida 求助。

Adidas 的反應也是由慢到快,一開始對主流媒體的態度還半信半疑的,不過沒幾天就進入狀況了,馬上找了幾位著名的攀岩者(譬如 John Long,當年首次一日攀登 Nose 成員之一)和 Adidas 的公關人員組成對外新聞小組,Tom 當然也是成員之一,在這樣的背景下,主流媒體每天都有新的、精彩的圖片或影帶(Tom 負責)報導, Dawn Wall 攀登就自然的成了主流媒體每天更新的新聞,同時,新聞小組好像也成了兩位攀登者和媒體之間的防火牆,讓兩位攀登者能夠專心攀登,直到登頂。詳情請看下列原文。

p.s. 也許臺灣同好會問,那兩位攀登者在最難的幾個繩距(pitch)處,不是分開了嗎?那,一個人要爬的時候,是不是要有第三個人幫他們確保?

不是!他們分開的時候,任何一個人要爬,另一個人就下降或利用固定繩猶馬上升幫那人確保,反之亦然。簡言之,從頭到尾,從起攀到登頂,都是兩個人互相確保每一個繩距,而且每一個人都 free climbing 每一個繩距,這種繩伴精神讓人敬佩。

Rock & Ice 以及 Climbing 會出專刊,一些細節等專刊出來以後再整理節錄,與臺灣同好共享。


以下原文刊登於 Supertopo 論壇:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-fo...e-Big-Big-News


Jan 17, 2015 - 10:02am PT (from Tom Evans, http://www.elcapreport.com/)

Good guess Clint! Actually I was sent to just take some shots and a few videos and I figured to spend evenings at the pool at the Yosemite View Hotel at the El Portal gate. I was shooting late in the evening a couple of days into the job when a guy wandered up and said "Are you Tom? Everyone said you are the guy I need to talk to." It was John Branch from the NY Times. We had a long chat and he took a lot of notes as I talk kinda fast when I speak about climbing. He left and next morning there was an article on the front page of the paper, quoting me and giving my ElCap Report contact information.

BOOM! It started! I awoke to emails from every conceivable network and news organization on the planet. They all came to me and suddenly I was the single information source for media, hungry for interviews and pictures. The requests always started the same... Hey Tom how are you doing? This is whoever and we understand that you have information about.... everything!!!

They all wanted a 4 minute interview with the climbers over their cell phone. And they wanted videos and pics too... all had deadlines of some sort. Right off Tommy and Kevin said NO, we don't want to talk to anyone as we want to focus on the climbing. Great..what was I to do now? I got on the horn to my Adidas Outdoor people in LA. At first they didn't quite get it... that this thing was about to explode into a huge event. I told them point blank that if we didn't get out front on this thing that someone else would and we would be left in the dust.

Adidas Outdoor swung into action and had John Long set up to do interview requests and Ted Distel to handle the videos and still shots, and Diane Kay to rout and manage the information coming from me. We quickly set up a drop box where the visual materials we had were downloaded and the media could resource anything they liked FOR FREE. That was the moment we took control of the event. I was busy like I have never been before in my life.

I would finally get to bed between midnight and 2am and get up at 4:30 or 5am to handle all the foreign requests. I would grab some junk food at the hotel store and hold up in the room doing phone interviews and directing information to LA. Fortunately, the weather got warm and the guys couldn't climb until late afternoon so I had the entire morning to answer media requests. I would try to get out of there by noon and escape to the meadow to shoot. I grabbed a bowl of chilli at the lodge after the shooting and race back to the room where I would do more media requests. I tried to get the report done before bed but some nights I just fell asleep in the chair and couldn't function as I was so tired. First thing in the morning I did the Report and took important emails as I was writing it.

ABC's GMA showed up early on and wanted interviews for the show and I got some TV exposure, if only for a few moments. From then on there was a line of TV media wanting to interview and tape me for this or that show. I had seen all this coming and went into my old talking mode to "Tourons at the Bridge." It worked and all the network people said I was a great interview and that I had "Great Hair!" Really! I said " you gotta be kidding me" They said that great hair was important on TV!!! Ha, Ha, I laughed until I was almost sick!!

Anyway the ElCap Report exploded too and that fed the frenzy. I got to saying, in answer to requests... read the days report first and if you have further questions I will answer them.

The story got better and better with the trials and tribulations of Kevin and the support of Tommy. It was NOT a slow media time. The 6th day of the story the Paris killings and the plane crash took the story off the front pages and it languished for a time.. but it was a long running story and I knew the media would be back in time because it was the only "feel good story" in the news. Sure enough it came back and went even more viral.. you know the rest.

One of the reporters from a San Jose paper, Lisa Fernandez, sent me a note after the story had finished, with the subject line. Do you know why this was such a big story? The message said "Because of you! You had good interviews and you had information available FREE to all the media and you kept the story alive" I was very flattered of course, but replyed that the Adidas Outdoor Team did all that stuff and they were the ones who made things happen for the media. I did get some good shots and videos and Ted was able to merge them into a good video that R&I ran daily on their website.

Today I am home and when I looked at my email... there was not a single message about the climb.. no requests at all! It was fun while it lasted and I was running with some fast company but that is the way these things go.. they sweep in like a storm and run their course and then sweep out just as fast as they came in. Now I am back to being an obscure photographer and blog writer. But it was some adventure... some adventure!

此文章於 2015-01-24 00:11 被 大濟 編輯.
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