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舊 2010-01-10, 19:43   #9
pyw
中度攀言者
 
註冊日期: 2003-11
文章: 116
pyw
All the best

Sorry climbers! Right now I am not able to type Chinese, but I think your English is better than mine, so it should be fine.

I am pretty sure that few years ago the CTAA did hold the trad climbing training conference and have issued the trad climbing licence for several climbers (I was one of them). However, to be honest, I have no idea if the organisation keeps running that kind of training.

According to what Ta-chi said: 臺灣攀岩界的走向,制度面扮演了舉足輕重的地位 (I doubt it)CBTABC教練及定線員制度把臺灣推向了極度(really?)的運動攀登 (maybe),而且越來越邊緣化(只著重比賽)(but the number of competitors has not increased much),我們是不是應該停下來想一想,平衡一下,輕微的調整,貫注一些新血 (I completely agree)也用制度面 (maybe this is not the first step)

(Well, I haven’t had any long-stay in Taiwan in last 3.5 years, so maybe I am wrong) I think rock climbing in TW is getting more recreational, not more competitive. In addition, policies were emerged due to particular issues. CBTABC教練及定線員制度 actually were established for the increasing demand of sport climbing, not CBTABC教練及定線員制度 created the population of sport climbing.

I believe if you go to most countries in the world, you always can see that sport climbing is more popular than trad climbing, whether in US, Austria, Japan, Australia, Korea or China. You cannot deny recreational (sport) climbing is easier (and more profitable) to get into it and trad climbing is much harder (and more expensive). So we cannot blame the political context.

In my personal view, it should be more related to the socio-economic context. 2.5 years ago I got an Australia National licence for outdoor climbing guide. This licensing system was established due to the increasing need of outdoor climbing, particularly commercial outdoor climbing. Therefore, when you have the market and population (and probably have to have debate as well), I believe the licence of trad climbing will be practiced. The climbers above definitely are the VIP to stimulate the market of trad climbing in TW. How much I hope I can be one of you.

I am so envy that you guys are going to do some trad climbing soon. Since the first surgery on my left hand, I haven’t had any climbing for ages. When I finished my third surgery, I sold all my trad climbing gears. I know probably I will not be able to do any trad climbing in the future. Nevertheless, I believe I can be a good belayer and maybe a good second climber with aid. Hope in the future I can be one of the helpers to promote trad climbing in TW.

__________________
王伯宇
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