檢視單個文章
舊 2011-06-07, 11:27   #5
大濟
攀言癌症患者
 
註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
文章: 689
大濟 是普普通通的會員
前幾天有空, 就借了圖書館的 "Nordwand"(North Face)再看一遍。雖然是看第二遍,還是覺得很好看!

版本是德文發音,英文字幕。德文我完全不懂,但確定全片沒有 "Z字攀登" 的英文,有的只是 "cross”,“traverse","diagonal" 幾個可能和 "Z" 字有關的英文。

倒是在艾格北壁早期攀登古典權威之作,"The White Spider"(作者 Heinrich Harrer 為首攀成功隊成員之一,他後來寫的 “Seven Years in Tibet” 也是名著,被拍成電影)第四章,在描述 Andreas Hinterstoisser 利用大擺盪突破 "Hinterstoisser Traverse" 時,有下列這段話:

"Andreas Hinterstoisser was the first to achieve the traverse to the First Ice Field, climbing in textbook fashion with the help of the rope. This technique of the 'rope traverse' had already been discovered and developed before the First World War by that master of rock climbing, Hans Dülfer, during his first ascent of the East Face of the Fleischbank and the West Wall of the Totenkirchl in the Kaisergebirge. In this way Dülfer showed how to link climbable pitches by the use of a diagonal 'lift' from the rope on unclimbable ones." (p. 38)

另一本經典之作,Doug Scott 的 “Big Wall Climbing” 一書也有這樣的記載:

" . . . the rope manoeuvre called the 'Dülfersitz' was developed at the same time. This was an abseil-pendulum swing enabling a smooth holdless slab to be crossed . . ." (p. 24)

所以 Hans Dülfer 在1910年代就發明了擺盪技巧是毋庸置疑的。Hans Dülfer 是德國人,而我猜無論是 Heinrich Harrer 所稱的 “rope traverse”,或是 Doug Scott 所謂的 “ abseil-pendulum swing”,德文應該是 “pendulum traverse” (而不是簡化的英文 “traverse”)。如果是這樣,德文 “pendulum traverse” 翻為 “Z形攀登” 倒是蠻傳神的。所以 Anmin 的說法應該是正確的,中文翻譯也沒錯,只是現代人不用這個名辭而已。只可惜看不到德文,不然就提供給 Anmin 作為參考,讓這個名辭尋根更傳神、精準。

值得一提的是,除了擺盪,Hans Dülfer 也發明了 「背向後倚」(layback)的動作和「過肩下降法」 (Dülfersitz abseiling)。「背向後倚」大家都熟,但「過肩下降」可能不熟,但它是我們早期攀岩者必修項目之一。

另節錄 "The White Spider" 裡的一段話,和主題無關,只是覺得寫的很好,和同好共享:

"Climbing is the most royal irrationality out of which man, in his creative imagination, has been able to fashion the highest personal value. Those personal values, which we gain from our approach to the mountains, are great enough to enrich our life. Is not the irrationality of its very lack of purpose the deepest argument for climbing?" (p. 21)

我喜歡 “irrationality of its very lack of purpose ” 這句話。

此文章於 2011-06-12 09:49 被 大濟 編輯. 原因: 加 Doug Scott 資料
大濟 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章