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舊 2013-11-09, 20:42   #20
littlepo
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作者: 大濟 檢視文章
傳奇登山家 梅思納 (Reinhold Messner)今天(星期三)公開說,上次與雪巴在珠峯發生衝突的那幾位歐洲登山家是 “寄生蟲”:

﹣﹣ “Climbers who cross ladders set by Sherpas at the Khumbu Icefall, then go up without ropes and claim to be special are parasites," Messner told a crowd at the British embassy in Kathmandu, in an apparent reference to Steck and Moro . . .

http://www.globalpost.com/dispatch/n...rest-brawl-row
昨天剛好有機會和秋良聊到這個事件,個人對於 Ueli Steck 沒有特別喜好,因為他做的事離我太遙遠,我無法拿他當 role model ,只是我觀察他所做的事,我覺得要不是真的喜歡攀登,不太可能去做這些嘗試。該個雪巴事件我覺得他們只是壓斷駱駝的最後一根稻草。

我相信 Ueli Steck 是很喜歡攀登的。

最近看到的對 Messner 的訪談:

第四個問題:

Right there, in Nepal, Swiss top climber Ueli Steck has caused a sensation by climbing solo through the Annapurna South Face. What is your view on this performance?

Ueli Steck has not been very lucky this year on Everest. The attack at Camp 2 has actually not been directed at him. The Sherpas wanted to hit others, real parasites. Steck and Simone Moro are no parasitic climbers, even if they used the fixed route via the Khumbu Icefall, without having talked to the Sherpas or having paid them. Last year Ueli Steck climbed Everest via the normal route which was not “Steck-like”. But what he did now on Annapurna, was again typically Ueli Steck: Climbing quickly, climbing at night to avoid rockfall, via a very difficult wall. He had tried the South Face twice before but failed, once even quite dramatically, because he was hit by a stone. I really have great respect for this climb. The way he did it is the only one that allows you to climb such a difficult and dangerous wall in Alpine style.
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