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舊 2011-11-02, 11:34   #4
A-YUNG
攀言癌症患者
 
註冊日期: 2003-11
文章: 305
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A-YUNG 是普普通通的會員
不清楚前輩怎麼定義人工攀登,我們開發路線和探勘新路線多少還是會人工一下,不過大部份時候抓岩點是比較快的,因此,人工的時機不多,上個月在近四十米完攀處,找不到裂隙時,也用上一個Petzl Skyhook作確保支點。

有些重點再提一下

It’s sometimes possible to leave a particularly well-wedged cam hook in place for protection, but back it up as soon as possible!
它可能只有某些情況可以當確保支點,而且一向不是很穩定(沒有受力時容易脫落),得盡快再加確保支點。

Cam hooks are most at home in cracks too thin for camming units,
當裂隙太細,岩楔沒辦法使用時,特別顯得有用!

cam hooking can save you a lot of hassle when aiding thin cracks
在小裂隙上人工攀登,特別能夠省下許多麻煩。

Cam hooks, in contrast, pop out easily. The downside is that a placement that’s secure while you’re standing on it may fall out when unweighted, making cam-hooking a little spooky.
它相對比較容易像所謂的「噴出」(pop out),沒有受力時也可能脫出,只有朝下放時(downside placement)是安全的,總讓人覺得心裡毛毛的。

For this reason, consider all other options before cam-hooking on soft sandstone (such as found in Zion National Park), since the hook can blow out the edges of the crack just like a piton would.

因此,(此原因係其穿扁帶的孔在一側,利用槓桿原理去 “cam”卡住),在比較軟的岩壁如Zion National Park的砂岩,以考慮其他岩楔為優先,原因是它和岩釘一樣可能破壞接觸的岩角。
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此文章於 2011-11-02 16:12 被 A-YUNG 編輯. 原因: 錯別字、……
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