[DOC]

龍洞傳統攀登路線固定點更新(anchor re-bolt)

大部分都是5.7~5.10 的路線,　快挖出塵封多年的傳攀器材來龍洞玩吧!
感謝金龍,青陳,小洪,一樵老爹,小翔,憲哥,建益,卡拉, ,老虎,…. (族繁不及備載)
宏祥 登榮 明哲 的電鑽
還有曾經捐款的你們

下列路線完攀處的固定點都有二個化學樁可供雙繩垂降到地
第一部分
以下第一個數字即 Matt/王宏祥合著之”龍洞傳統攀登”書中之路線編號,請參考

1. 迎風裂隙 seacrack 頂端更新2個bolt
3. surprise 裂隙 頂端添加1個bolt
35. 白鯨記(鯨魚頭)Moby dick: 鯨魚頭頂端添加1個bolt(垂降到地約30米)
40,41, steal your face偷臉, three right legs三隻右腳: 頂端添加1個bolt
44. 大禮堂 自由裂隙 freedom crack: 頂端更新2個bolt,
43. 大禮堂 “十”裂隙 “Ten” crack 頂端添加2個bolt,

第二部分
YumYum前進龍洞岩場 第103頁的
訓導處橫渡上方 路線6,7 (快速道路,凹洞): 頂端更新2個bolt
YumYum前進龍洞岩場 第126,127頁的
音樂廳正面 路線1 (5.8): 頂端更新2個bolt
路線2 (5.10a): 頂端斜板原有2個bolt, 加打1個bolt
路線7 (中華民國ROC): 全線更新
YumYum前進龍洞岩場 第128,129頁的
音樂廳左面 路線 1,2(pyramid, 倒拉夾手): 全線更新 頂端更新2個bolt(慢板,臨海茶室可共用此top anchor)

第176,177頁的
黃金谷走道 路線 3,4,5(warm up I, warm up II, Gold): 頂端更新4個bolt
第184頁的
黃金谷 III
路線5(Gold Wall 1): 頂端2個bolt
路線6,7 (Gold Wall 2 &3): 頂端2個bolt (共用Top Anchor)
路線8(Gold Wall 4, 也就是Matt的黃金浴(route No.73)延長版): 頂端2個bolt
以上路線皆25m左右

第三部分
大禮堂 5.13(?) 外傾裂隙 中間轉換點更新2個bolt (垂降到地約30米)


Long Dong traditional climbing anchor Rebolting:
Most of the routes are around 5.7~5.10. Enjoy!
The following routes have 2-bolt top anchor:
Part A
The first number is the route number labeled in “Long Dong Trad Climbing” which was written by Matt Robertson and王宏祥.
Route No. 2 seacrack: top anchor re-bolted (2 bolts)
No.3 surprise crack: top anchor add one bolt
No. 35 Moby dick: top anchor add one bolt(Rappelling down to ground needs 60-meter rope)
No. 40,41, steal your face, three right legs: top anchor add one bolt
No. 44 freedom crack : top anchor re-bolted (2 bolts),
No. 43 Ten crack: top anchor added (2 bolts).

Part B
Yum-Yum’s Lung Tung Rock Climbing Guide book
Page 102,103:
Disciplinary area (above transverse)(continued)
Route 6&7: shared top anchor re-bolted (2 bolts)
Page126,127:
Music hall front side: route1 (5.8): top anchor re-bolted (2 bolts)
Route2 (5.10a): top anchor add one bolt
Route 7 (ROC): re-bolted (5 bolts)
Page128,129
Music hall left side: route 1,2(pyramid, 倒拉夾手): re-bolted (5 bolts), top anchor re-bolted (2 bolts)
Page176,177
golden valley entrance(continued): route 3,4,5(warm up I, warm up II, Gold): top anchor re-bolted (4 bolts)
Page184
golden valley III
route5(Gold Wall 1): 2-bolt top anchor
route 6,7 (Gold Wall 2 &3): 2-bolt top anchor (share Top Anchor)
route 8(Gold Wall 4, ie. extended Golden shower (extended route No.73): 2-bolt top anchor

Part C
Grand auditorium: 5.13 2-pitch overhang crack: first pitch belay station re-bolted (2 bolts) (Rappelling down to the ground is about 30 meters)