台灣攀岩資料庫 - 檢視單個文章

anmin · 2012-07-03, 20:57

親眼見過幾次有人在這腿腳受傷, 前幾個月又看到有人受傷, 再三考慮很久, 還是決定貼上這篇建議..

[路線427] "發想", 215頁路線圖標示翻過內角天花板難關之後接上路線426. 由於bolt安裝位置的關係, 採取運動方式先鋒的攀登者在翻過難關之後如果沒扣到快扣墜落的話, 再加上反應不及的確保者, 攀登者必然會撞擊下方的岩階而受傷 (通常是腳踝嚴重扭傷). 建議比較沒有決心的先鋒攀登者在翻難關之前扣上路線428天花板上的bolt, 從左邊翻出天花板難關之後接上路線428, 或是爬路線428左邊的內角.

[route 427] "plausible", on the p.215 topo this route joins route 426 after the dihedral roof crux. Because of bolt positions, a sport climbing leader, in addition to a less responsive belayer, WILL hit the ledge below (and typically results in serious ankle injury) if (s)he falls just before clipping above the crux. It is recommended for sport leaders with less commitment to clip the bolt just above the roof on route 428, and to climb out the roof from the left, and then join route 428 or climb the dihedral left to route 428.

2012-07-03, 20:57	#5
anmin 重度攀言者註冊日期: 2003-05 住址: 太陽數過來第三顆石頭文章: 190	親眼見過幾次有人在這腿腳受傷, 前幾個月又看到有人受傷, 再三考慮很久, 還是決定貼上這篇建議.. [路線427] "發想", 215頁路線圖標示翻過內角天花板難關之後接上路線426. 由於bolt安裝位置的關係, 採取運動方式先鋒的攀登者在翻過難關之後如果沒扣到快扣墜落的話, 再加上反應不及的確保者, 攀登者必然會撞擊下方的岩階而受傷 (通常是腳踝嚴重扭傷). 建議比較沒有決心的先鋒攀登者在翻難關之前扣上路線428天花板上的bolt, 從左邊翻出天花板難關之後接上路線428, 或是爬路線428左邊的內角. [route 427] "plausible", on the p.215 topo this route joins route 426 after the dihedral roof crux. Because of bolt positions, a sport climbing leader, in addition to a less responsive belayer, WILL hit the ledge below (and typically results in serious ankle injury) if (s)he falls just before clipping above the crux. It is recommended for sport leaders with less commitment to clip the bolt just above the roof on route 428, and to climb out the roof from the left, and then join route 428 or climb the dihedral left to route 428.