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舊 2010-12-17, 23:30   #7
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之前,指出不同的意見,總覺得有舉證的義務,仔細翻譯後發現有許多小細節是值得參考的。

語意不清楚的地方,還要有勞前輩,各方好手指導。

TALES OF POWER
You can train long or you can train hard, but not both — which is probably why so many of us train power so wrongly. (By “power,” we mean the product of strength and speed, i.e., the explosive force recruited any time you use momentum, or “go for it.”) Properly training power allows you to get stronger — to muckle (muscle, sic.) through otherwise impossible cruxes. Thus, step one with power training is to realize you’re training, not just exercising. I.e., if you’re still firing out a steep wall on small holds three hours into a session, the problem’s nowhere near your maximum ability and you’re not really training power.

爆發力訓練
訓練經常是想要練長路線,但卻無法練得太難,魚與熊掌無法兼得—--也就因此有許多人不能正確地訓練爆發力(爆發力,我們指的是做動作或拼路線時的強度、速度、爆發性力量)。適當的爆發力訓練,會讓你變的強壯—--好讓你去拼看似不可能的困難點,因此,第一階段的爆發力訓練(註:step one 我懷疑他指的應該是持續四至六星期的power phase,他的step 1是介紹熱身?!)是讓你適應即將進入的高強度訓練,不僅僅是爬好玩的。比方說,如果你還在大角度上拼小點,一連爬三小時,其最大的問題,在於你訓練的強度無法接近你的極限能力,那你就不是真的在訓練爆發力。

Because our local crags around Lander, Wyoming, feature short climbs with few holds, our training centers on power, but in a true-tolife way: using angles, holds, and movements found on rock. From what I’ve seen training climbers the past 20 years, the guy who uses his whole body to create power is better off than any “campus master.” So read on for big-picture ideas about training power the natural way.

由於在我們Lander附近的岩壁,路線短而且路線上沒多少把手點,我們的訓練是集中在爆發力上,但在現實中:我們運用岩壁上現成的各種角度、把手點、特定的動作去訓練。以我二十多年來,見過許多攀岩者的訓練,發現有人運用「全身去創造力量」的訓練方法,是比任何一般所說的campus訓練(註:只用手爬,雙腳懸著)還要好。因此,繼續看看,了解如何以自然方式訓練爆發力的整體概念。

Keep It Short
True power training is very intense — only 45 to 60 minutes. Add in 15 to 30 minutes of warm-up and cool-down, and you’re still done in subtwo hours. By keeping these sessions short (fatigue creates endurance, not power), you can do more per week — if you’re in shape, up to two or three hard power sessions, totaling close to three hours of quality work.


要求短時間內完成
真正的爆發力訓練是很緊湊的—--只有4560分鐘,外加1530分鐘的熱身和收操,而且你還能在兩小時內完成。讓這些步驟維持在短時間內完成(疲累只能練就耐力,不是爆發力),也可以在一星期中多安排訓練次數—--如果你最近的狀況很好,可以將一週內的訓練加倍,甚至加到三回,完成整個訓練則會是接近三小時的高品質訓練。

A typical power phase lasts four to six weeks and will often consist of mostly gym sessions. If you climb outside, only boulder or try short, difficult climbs — you’ll have little time (or energy) for other climbing. After this phase, you can cycle back into “normal” mode and put your power to the test. In a given year, you could fruitfully advance through three or four power phases. (Intersperse these, however, with a minimum of four to six weeks of less-intense training or climbing.)

典型的爆發力訓練階段會持續4 6星期,而且通常包括大部分的室內攀登訓練,如果你想到戶外攀岩,你只能安排抱石或困難的短路線—--在這階段將不會剩餘太多時間(或力氣),去練習其它的攀登方式。經過這階段(註:數週的長時間他用phase),你可以轉換回到一般模式的訓練階段,同時可以檢驗你的爆發力。在整個訓練有素的年度裡,你可以將爆發力訓練增加至三到四階段。(無論如何,在整年的訓練中,得分散安排至少四到六星期的低強度訓練或爬簡單路線)

Recovery Time Is Key
We don’t leave the gym with more power — it’s recovery that promotes improvement. In general, it should take 36 to 72 hours to bounce back from a proper power session. After this time, it’s critical that you again hit the system with another stimulus, or the first session’s value declines. (If you climb only once weekly, you’ll see no improvement.) On the flip side, rest too little or train too long (e.g., those fun four hours of nonstop gym routes with your buddies), and you fail to improve.


關鍵在於復元時間
我們一向竭力訓練,不留遺力於岩館—--而復元能夠促使進步,一般情況,訓練後得花費3672小時,才能在「有效爆發力訓練」後得到回饋。經過復元時間後,正是根據系列訓練,再一次刺激你的肌肉的關鍵時間,或趕上你上一次訓練後,程度開始衰退前。(如果你一星期只爬一次,你將不會進步)另一方面,休息太少,或訓練太長(例如,那些和夥伴們在岩館裡,玩樂式地、不停地爬了四小時),然而,你將無法得到進步。

Specify
The more your training resembles your goal routes or problems, the better. That is, developing climbing power is about training the muscles of the back and the hip girdle. Sure, our arms get tired first, but it’s these “big” muscles that generate the most force and help us integrate our feet/legs. Climbers usually train power in several ways: power-focussed bouldering (discussed in this tip), random bouldering, system training, campus training, body-weight resistance training, and weight training. These latter five modes are fine, but should supplement, not replace, power problems (see “Perfect Power” sidebar).

詳細說明
你的訓練越能接近你的目標路線或「抱石路線」越好,也就是發展攀岩爆發力取決於背部、髖部(註:大腿和軀幹之關節處)周圍肌肉訓練。誠然,我們的手臂會先疲勞,不過卻是這些肌肉創造大部分的力量而且協助、增進我們腳的踩點和腿部的協調運作。攀岩者通常以幾種不同的方式訓練爆發力:專注強度的抱石(這篇討論的)、隨機抱石、系統訓練(註:從system training字面上,無法了解其訓練概念)campus訓練(註:只用手爬,雙腳懸著)、自身體重為負載的體能訓練、重量訓練。後面五種訓練方式,一般而言,可擔任額外輔助的訓練,而不是置換爆發力訓練路線。(見「絕佳肌力」段)

Don’t Get Worked
At first, you might feel you aren’t properly “worked.” Perfect — this lets you come back hard in a couple days. Improvement is why you’re training. Be patient, be disciplined, and you’ll see gains as quickly as three weeks.


別操練過度
一開始,你可能會感到不是操練得很適當、完美—--這會讓你有一陣子不想再訓練。進步是我們訓練的目的,要有耐心、按步就班,然後,很快你將在三週內就見到成效。


Speed It Up
Another good way to increase power is to increase speed. But because climbing is so technical, speed often decreases fine motor skill, hence hold-grabbing/stabbing accuracy. I’d recommend only going a wee bit faster — say five percent — to prevent your form from going to hell.


加快訓練速度
還有另外一個增加爆發力的訓練方法就是加快速度。但攀岩之運動技術要求高,速度往往會因為精細的運動反應動作而降低,如由於抓點/精確地將手指伸入把手點中之類的。我建議只要稍微爬快一點點即可—--如快個百分之五—--去避免你的訓練模式過份離譜了。

As an exercise, time yourself on some 10-to-12-move problems; then speed them up by no more than a second or two. Work on efficiency — if you get sloppy, slow down and re-evaluate. A few tricks: memorize the sequence from the ground, and climb from memory, not reaction;? move consistently upward — don’t fall into start-stop movement; and focus on your feet — your legs drive most movement, so make sure they’re not just dragging while you speed-lunge.


像一般運動一樣,你可以為自己在10 12動作路線計時(註:move 一般只記數,有提升的攀登動作),然後,加快速度爬,直到無法再快過一、兩秒。操練時要爬得很有效率—--如果變得懶散、慢了下來,就得重新評估。這裡有幾個要訣:攀登過程要靠記憶記熟的,不要靠平衡反應去找腳點會太慢。動作持續加快—--別陷入爬爬停停的動作,且專注在腳的踩點動作—--你的腳,引導驅使著大部分的動作,因此,記得當你在衝速度的時侯,你的腳不是僅僅拖著而已。

Steve Bechtel, a climber of 20 years, has pioneered 250-plus routes on six continents. He works as a performance coach for climbers and other athletes, owns ElementalTrainingCenter (climbstrong.net) in Lander, Wyoming, and holds a degree in exercise physiology.

Steve Bechtel,是一位二十年資歷的攀岩者,曾經在六大洲,先鋒帶隊超過250條以上的路線。同時也是個攀岩及其它運動的技術指導教練工作者,在美國懷俄明州Lander,擁有Elemental Training Center 「巨力訓練中心」(網站climbstrong.net),及運動生理學相關學位。

Perfect Power: a Workout Routine

This four-step workout looks simple on paper, but it works. Give yourself three or four weeks, and then test gains on personal benchmark problems.


* Step 1: 15 to 30 minutes of warm-up, with resistance exercises (pull-ups and bodyweight squats) and some easier, yet increasingly intense, climbing. Cardiovascular exercise — say, a few minutes on the treadmill or stationary bike — is fine early in the warm-up, too.
* Step 2: four to five tries on a hard problem (four to 10 moves), just above your onsight level, that requires explosive movement. Use holds big enough to train power, rather than failing because of finger strength. Think slopers, flat jugs, and big edges. If you don’t quite top out, that’s fine. Better to fail than to under-stimulate your system.
* Step 3: six to eight tries on one or two max-effort problems requiring explosiveness, with two to three minutes of rest between each burn. Again, if you complete more than half the problem, it’s an attempt; though if you fall low, jump right back on. Remember, you are not going for a pump. If you feel fatigue, increase rest time. End this step when power declines even slightly.
* Step 4: cool down on easy ground, with stretching or exercises that recruit the antagonist muscles. Push-ups, bench dips, and some planks/bridges seem to work — two to three sets of each, not quite to failure

絕佳肌力:例行訓練課表
以下四個步驟課表,看似簡單的紙上作業,但它很管用。練個三、四星期,然後利用你個人的基準路線去測試其成效。

步驟一:1530分鐘的熱身,可以做些體能運動(單槓、起立蹲下之類的運動)或爬些簡單的路線,逐漸變難。再則也可以事先安排騎幾分鐘自行車機器,加速血液循環之類的運動。

步驟二:練四到五次,爬4 10個動作的較難路線,稍微比可以on-sight的路線難一點,需要要求爆發力量的動作。用夠大的點,不要因為指力不足而影響訓練。如厚的饅頭點(註:Thick slopers!?是拼錯嗎?)、平的杯狀點、的階狀點。如果無力完攀沒關係,至少好過爬到一半墜落,而不能得到足夠的訓練刺激。

步驟三:練六至八次,爬一、兩條最難拼的路線,要求爆發力的,每次之間休息二、三分鐘,如果你可以爬超過一半以上,訓練刺激就相當了,但如果你不到一半墜落,趕快回到路線繼續。記住,不是要你練到pumped ,如果你感到疲累,增加休息時間,而當肌力減退至連稍微簡單的也沒辦法爬了,就結束訓練。

步驟四:找個舒服的地面,做最後的收操,可以做一些反向拮抗肌伸展操協助肌肉恢復,如伏地挺身、壓凳推舉運動(註:可搜尋圖片bench dips)、肘抵架橋運動(註:可搜尋planks/bridges),各二至三回,不要做到無法反覆。
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此文章於 2010-12-21 12:22 被 A-YUNG 編輯. 原因: 排字錯誤、錯字、補充、修改
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