檢視單個文章
舊 2013-05-04, 07:21   #8
大濟
攀言癌症患者
 
註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
文章: 689
大濟 是普普通通的會員
“國家地理雜誌” 訪談 Simone Moro 中,Simone Moro 嚴詞否認曾用無線電講髒話挑釁。

前面說 Simone Moro 用無線電講髒話和挑釁的人是 Garrett Madison,知名嚮導,WIKI 有他的介紹:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garrett_Madison

幾天下來,因為在場的人陸續開始對外通訊,事情來龍去脈登山界也慢慢清楚了,儘管三位當事人在媒體不停的說自己的看法,開始有一些算是遠征體系裡有份量的人也開始公開表達看法,他們的立場應該是了解事情的真相後才會發言的。譬如:

Phil Powers,American Alpine Club (AAC)執行總裁:
http://inclined.americanalpineclub.o...-then-and-now/

Phil 看法和以下摘錄自 "冒險雜誌“(Adventure Journal)由 Adrian Ballinger 執筆的文章差不多,Adrian Ballinger 是知名嚮導(WIKI 有 Adrian Ballinger 的介紹)

http://www.adventure-journal.com/201...-fight-fiasco/

. . . To me, the bottom line is that multiple mistakes were made by both sides. On Everest, the professional climbers (even when attempting new routes) also benefit from fixed ropes, trails broken, and rescue caches placed, primarily by the Sherpa. The professional climbers involved could have and should have chosen somewhere else to acclimatize on this day, instead of solo climbing above the rope fixing team. Everyone knew about the rope fixing effort, and other teams that would have liked to be climbing where the incident occurred respected the rope fixing effort and stayed off the Lhotse Face. Even if no rock or ice actually was knocked off by the professional climbers, and even if no rope-fixing Sherpa was injured, there was still a perception of disrespect for the effort. As part of past rope-fixing efforts on Everest, I can attest to the importance of not having other climbers pushing the team from below, or putting the team at risk from above . . .”(底線是我加的重點)

回到 “國家地理雜誌” 訪談 Simone Moro 的那篇文章,比較有興趣還是來自雪巴讀者的留言,有兩個:

第一個留言:

Tsering Jangbu: “Hello everyone, I am a sherpa from the place of mount everest too, but i currently live in Kathmandu (Capital). I did have a glimpse of BBC news broadcasting the Mount Everest situation on television, but was busy on computers. Reading this article, i couldn't believe what had happened to the team up there in the mountains. As far as i believe Sherpas are suppose to be the most welcoming and friendly people, looks like we have really disappointed everyone, if what Simone Moro has told is true. On behalf of all those Sherpas, I would like to apologize for the life threatening situation the team had to face. I wish nothing, but never for such thing to happen to anybody's life. Not all sherpas see this article, so i've said what any other sherpas would.”

但他得到的回應之一是:“You sherpas need to clean house!”

另一個雪巴留言:

Ang Sherpa:“ Signor Moro (Dotore!) Bonjorno! I am very sorry this unfortunate incident has happened, all this was unnecessary. There is a big big cultural differences, one has to be tolerent and sensitive to local culture. Brought Couburn touched on the subject, difficult to expect Sherpas of today to behave as their ansestors, some are spoilt, but majority are friendly and humble people. Definately some bad habits has been introduced over the years due to massive influx of tourism. Tourism has become a double edged sword for us Sherpas, brings money and bad influence since all tourists are not same. What really surprised me is why Mr.Moro has not been tactful enough to navigate in this culture for the amount of exposure he has gained over the years. Sherpas are very proud but humble in nature, they resent show offs, arrogance and display of wealth and power. I live and work in Europe, struggle to convince my counterpart that being humble and polite does not mean lack of self confidence in our culture. May I suggest Mr. Moro , next time leave your helicopter back home and come just like any other simple climber to enjoy the mountain but not for fame and glory. When you are in Roma,act as Romans.Needless to tell, Italian soccer players knows all the tricks to win the game. Ah! the main point, there were many many nationalities climbing same time as you but why did this unfortunate incident happened with you? did you question yourself?Whoever is proven guilty should be disciplined , our mountains are getting poluted.Ciao!”

我看了很多的讀者留言,是有不少的人寫下中肯意見也希望能看到比較有雪巴立場的報導,但是很遺憾,不少人,尤其是美國的讀者,保持的態度是這樣的(摘錄自留言):

“If the events unfolded as stated above (指的是 Moro 的版本) it sounds like the sherpas needed a few rounds from a gun. What idiots! Guess what you dumbshits.... you don't own the mountain, you just work there!”

此文章於 2013-05-07 22:38 被 大濟 編輯. 原因: 寫清楚一點
大濟 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章