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舊 2003-06-23, 09:06   #9
Ta-Chi
輕度攀岩者
 
註冊日期: 2003-05
文章: 77
Ta-Chi
攀岩名詞解釋(On-sight、Redpoint)

Debugguy\'s interpretation is really funny - and perhaps accurate. I like it! Eric\'s (Ah-Fu) explanation about \"testpieces\" is also informative. I like it, too.
I believe (my belief may be wrong) that those differentiations began as sport climbing started to became popular -- in other words, these terms are relevant only to the filed of sport climbing. Knowing beta or not is important and sometime critical to a bolted 13 or 14 route, but may not be so to a 12 or even 11 trad route.
In the meantime, this differentiation is telling about the difference between trad and sport climbing -- the former is mainly mental and the latter physical.
Defined more generally, able to climb 13 sport is less impressive in terms of \"climbing ability\" than able to do 11 or 12 traditional (Yuji did not become a \'good\' climber until he did - flashed - Pheonix which is a 13 trad route, and if you can do \"Emotional Rescue\" at Enclosure, a Teton classic trad route which is only 11, 6 pitches, you would be much more likely and widely regarded as a \"good climber\" than if you redpoint \"To Bolt or Not To Be\".)
I think it is all natural for sport climbing to become a more and more \"detailed\" competition because its focus is narrow, whereas in trad climbing people tend not to care that much because the challenges there are much more multifaceted. But my belief, again, may be wrong. [img]images/forum/smilies/icon_smile.gif[/img]
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