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舊 2003-07-06, 21:57   #12
Ta-Chi
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註冊日期: 2003-05
文章: 77
Ta-Chi
龍洞黃金谷New Project!

Kevin:

This is not one of \"them,\" although I am not 100% sure where this route you show me is (I guess this route is located right in where \"Golden Valley\" connects to the \"Back Door\") If I am right, this route is a little short, and, as someone\'s comments already have it - too narrow - to become a \"classic.\" The majority of 5.13s and potential 5.14s - let me give you a hint - are located in places where you need to aid-climb in order to set a top-rope to try it!

TT:

What is \"KO?\"

A-Fwu:

I think A-Fwu is right: keep climbing up the steep face past the big V-gove might make this route harder, more strenuous, and might as well make it on the verge of 5.14 (I can only imagine this because I cannot even do 5.11 now . . .)

As to the rope-draging problem, one solution is to add one bolt right to the anchor on the right edge of the V-gove, making it a \"directional third anchor,\" such that when TR, at least one rope (TR has \"two ropes\") will go to right first from the anchor and so pass the lower edge of the V-grove and make it straight-down. But this is may be overconcerned. For a route like this steep, TR or redpoint should clip almost all bolts to avoid swing too far to get back to rock once taking a fall. If full-clipped, the damage on rope due to draging becomes minimal and sometimes can even be ignored. [img]images/forum/smilies/[/img]
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