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舊 2005-01-19, 20:04   #9
clk
週末攀岩者
 
註冊日期: 1999-11
文章: 33
clk
明哲的NOSE攀登記錄上網了!!!

It is a glorious achievement in the history of Taiwan mountaineering. Congratulation!

They said they also assent the Half Dome just days before. If my guess is right, it is the Half Dome North West face normal route, 23 pitches. This route is also one of the North America 50 Classic routes. It usually takes two days but they did it fast in less than 12 hours for 23 pitches. The photos and story of Half Dome ascent should be also posted and recorded in the Taiwan Mountaineering history.

From the photos of the Nose ascent looks like that Ming-Ther lead and haul every pitch. This young man is incredibly energetic.

Because the Nose is a popular route, at the base of the Nose, there usually is a fixed line, sometime go all the way up to the Camp IV. Most of parties use the fix line for the first four pitches to save a day of climbing. In normal climbing season, parties must line up at the base waiting for there chance.
I was on the Nose few years ago in a cold December at Christmas time. When we were there, the whole El Capitan has only two parties attempting to climb, one is our party and the other is trying the Zodiac. The condition was bad so I retreated and I haven’t find time and a partner to try it again. I am also becoming an “Ojisan” now.
Free climbing is the key for speed ascent. Just recently, Huber brother did Zodiac in less than two hours. Steph Davis became the second woman after Lynn Hill to free climb El Capitan in a day. Tommy Caldwell did a 5.14 on El Capitan, a probably the hardest free climb in big wall climbing history (after lost one of his digit finger in a carpentry accident years ago). So many great climbers give us inspiration now.
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