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舊 2005-05-20, 08:42   #1
IC
中度攀言者
 
註冊日期: 2003-10
文章: 97
IC
青少年是否適宜抱石賽

因為擔心長潛在的運動傷害,UIAA不支持舉辦青少年抱石賽,十六、七歲的青少年是可以參加成人組賽程。

History:

Since the early 90's international climbing competitions have been held on a regular basis. Youth Competitions were a logical consequence with World Championships and the European Youth Cup (EYC) being held regularly. While adult competitions come in all disciplines such as technically difficulty climbing, speed climbing and bouldering, the youth competitions are only held on technically difficulty climbs. The ICC of UIAA approached MedCom UIAA to give a statement on the question of whether international youth bouldering competitions should be started.

Statement:

MedCom UIAA does not support the idea of international youth bouldering competitions as the potential for long term medical damage is too high.

Proof:

In technically difficult climbing competitions the main focus of the routes is on forearm strength-endurance, while bouldering demands maximum power moves. We already know that intensive climbing in youngsters leads to radiological changes, such as cortical hypertrophy, subchondral sclerosis etc. We found in our studies that all young athletes presenting with osteoarthrosis or epiphyseal fractures where focusing on maximum power training (e.g. Campus Board). Even if we do not have conclusive scientific proof that maximum power training such as campus Board� leads to osteoarthritic changes in the very young climbers, there seem to be adequate circumstantial evidence to suggest that this is the case.
These training methods cannot therefore be recommended in the age group below 18years. With international youth bouldering competitions the athletes would focus on training which has a very high impact on a still growing body and skeletal system. As juniors, 16 or older, can already take part in adult competitions we do not recommend introducing an international boulder competition, in a younger age group, to protect these kids from potential health damage.


Recommended Literature:

Omitted.

出處:
http://www.uiaa.ch/?c=167
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