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舊 2005-05-21, 00:56   #2
大濟
攀言癌症患者
 
註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
文章: 689
大濟 是普普通通的會員
感謝 IC 專業知識提供。我深為受傷所苦,所以特別感激這方面的專業知識。另,我把您刪除的參考文獻貼上來,希望 IC 兄不介意。臺灣青少年的運動攀登風氣也許正方興未艾,希望有心同好能找到它們並提供給臺灣的攀岩界:

1)Schlegel Ch., Schöffl V.: Statement Epiphyseal Fractures in Adolescent Climbers, MedCom UIAA in preparation

2)Hochholzer Th., Schöffl V., Bischof B. :Epiphysenfrakturen der Fingermittelgelenke bei Sportkletterern. Sport Orthop.Traumatol. 18, (2), 87 – 92, 2002

3)Schoeffl V, Hochholzer Th, Karrer A, Winter S, Imhoff A: Fingerschäden jugendlicher Leistungskletterer – Vergleichende Analyse der deutschen Jugendnationalmannschaft sowie einer gleichaltrigen Vergleichsgruppe von Freizeitkletterern. Deutsche Zeitschrift für Sportmedizin 54: 317-322, 2003

4)Schoeffl V, Hochholzer Th, Imhoff A: Radiographic Changes in the Hands and Fingers of Young, High Level Climbers. Am J Sport Med in print

5)Hochholzer Th, Schöffl V :One move to many – How to understand the injuries and overuse syndromes of rock climbing, Lochner Verlag, Ebenhausen. 2003

其中,(5)是一本書。我用 Bookfinder 找不到,UM-Madison 的圖書館好像也沒有(還在努力找,找到會看一下並介紹給大家)。(4)是一篇期刊論文,出版時我會去圖書館拷貝下來(可惜無 Internet 連結),寄給有興趣的人。如臺灣有 “American Journal of Sports Medicine” 這本期刊,(4)的文章將會刊在上面,那就不用寄了。其它的好像是德文,小弟無法度。

另,以下是亂找找到的一篇文獻,作者和上述的文獻重疊,或許也有參考價值。是奧地利的德文醫療期刊,但摘要是英文。UW-Madison 的圖書館好像有,如有人需要,我可以去拷貝寄給您:


〔刊物名〕Wien Klin Wochenschr. 2000 Nov 24;112(22):965-72.

〔文章名〕Injury pattern and overuse stress syndrome in young sport climbers [Article in German]

〔作者〕Pfeifer C, Messner K, Scherer R, Hochholzer T.

〔出版刊物的單位〕Institut fur Statistik und Institut fur Sportwissenschaften, Universitat Innsbruck, Osterreich. Christian.Pfeifer@uibk.ac.at

〔英文摘要〕The rapidly growing interest in sports climbing in recent years among young climbers raises the question about the risk of injuries and overstrain syndromes in this group. This paper investigates injuries and overstrain syndromes of 99 adolescent climbers aged between 8 and 19 years. The authors interviewed climbers from Austria, Germany and Switzerland. Besides the type and pattern of injuries and overstrain syndromes, the level and duration of climbing, intensity of training and gender were recorded as potential risk factors. 47 climbers were asked about setting up fingers on small holds, which is considered a main reason for epiphyseal injuries of fingers in the literature. Injuries and overstrain syndromes, as well as their frequency and pattern are reported and classified. Descriptive data analysis and statistical models are used to assess the influence of risk factors. Among the potential risk factors only the climbing level has a significant influence on the risk of injuries and overstrain syndromes (p = 0.0427). Furthermore the risk of injuries and overstrain syndromes in the area of the fingers is significantly higher for climbers who reported setting up fingers on small holds (OR = 8.24, p = 0.0022). Finally we found a higher frequency of injuries and overstrain syndromes in lower extremities (43% of all injury and overstrain occurrences) and a lower frequency of injuries and overstrain syndromes in general (43% of all the climbers under investigation) compared to other studies. As a result special guidelines for training and competition are given. In order to increase the accuracy of the reports and to investigate long-term effects we recommend a study with clinical assessment and a longer period of observation.



上述的以下兩篇文章已向 UW-Madison 的圖書館申請 PDF 檔。如收到,會想辦法貼上來,讓大家作個參考:

1)Schoffl V. Hochholzer T. Imhoff A. “Radiographic changes in the hands and fingers of young, high-level climbers.” American Journal of Sports Medicine. 32(7):1688-94, 2004 Oct-Nov.

2)Pfeifer C. Messner K. Scherer R. Hochholzer T. “Injury pattern and overuse stress syndrome in young sport climbers.” [German] Wiener Klinische Wochenschrift. 112(22):965-72, 2000 Nov 24.
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