18. Clipping into belay anchors with just a daisy chain
Daisies are great... for aid climbing. They’re not designed to hold more than body weight, however, so they don’t belong in the belay system. Specially designed personal anchor tethers are safer, but require careful use; they aren’t able to stretch significantly, so a fall onto a slack tether can severely shock-load the anchor. Tie into your anchor with the stretchy, shock-absorbing lead rope to avoid these problems. See http://www.climbing.com/print/techti..._anchors_away/ for more on anchor tethers.