”Built to Last? The Hidden Dangers Of Climbing Bolts：Climbing anchors and corrosion”
By Jeff Achey / Photos by Andrew Burr
“The Access Fund can’t just step in and tell people what to do,” says Robinson. “The hope is that long-lived bolts, and bolts that can be replaced without drilling new holes, will become more and more common. Great technologies are here or are on the horizon, but it only helps us if people use them.”
Hey there. Thanks for contacting us about bolt removal and reusing the holes. Most of our bolt removal and reuse of the holes have been with 5 piece Rawls 1/2". The 3/8 holes can be salvaged in some case but not always by using a coring drill bit. For the half inch we have developed special tools to remove them. However in your case I don't think you'll be able to use those holes. We call the bolt your using smashies. Though good they are a bear to remove. We have very very few of those and the ones I've came across we used new holes. If we had more I'd develop a way to remove them.
Our Titanium bolts really are that simple. My goal is to provide the longest lasting anchor and I'm confident we have achieved that. I'm not sure why you would want to remove a titanium bolt. I'm very confident that a titanium bolt in epoxy resin will last at least 50 years. The epoxy has at least a 50 year life expectancy in the construction industry and my thoughts are that such a product designed to hold huge bridges and building up would last much longer. I would expect the titanium bolt to last hundreds of years in fact, that's an informed estimate rather than a guarantee by the way.
I have removed titanium bolts by burning them out with a blow torch but it does take a long time.
The most reliable way to remove a titanium bolt would be to grind off the eye part flush with the rock and use a small diameter diamond core drill... http://www.redbanduk.co.uk/shop/item...----14mm-o-d-/
The bolt legs would centre the core drill and a new bolt could be placed in the same diameter hole as the original bolt . . .
Today is the day, we finished up our first batch of Legacy bolts. This is an email going to all of those that showed interest, most of you know what the bolt is and how it works but just in case, it is a sleeve style bolt that allows for easy removal, enabling reuse of the original bolt hole. It came to our attention, from climbing organizations active in anchor replacement all over the country, that have been looking for a more sustainable solution in climbing hardware. We are happy to introduce a bolt and hanger combination that will provide generations of climbers the ability to enjoy routes with minimal impact from hardware replacement. I have a couple videos here for you to check out and manual attached for more information on what this bolt is and the implications in its use.