A regular contributor to Climbing's Medicine department,Dr.Joel Rohrbough has been climbing for eight years(although he says living in New York has effctively subtracted five).
Eager to catch up ,he has recently accepted a position as a sport medicine and shouler specialist in Flagstaff ,Arizona ,where he will be starting practice in September.
“[W]e’re only going to address the shoulders. This region hosts the origin of almost every move that climbing begins with. And while it does not include the “money” area (the hands and forearms), biomechanical alignment problems will radiate to that area as well. This means that imbalances in the scapular region can lead to elbow, wrist, or even finger problems. Even though you rarely fail on a climb because your back or shoulders were pumped, strengthening these areas properly will shift more of each climbing movement’s burden to this region’s larger muscles, thus saving your smaller hand and forearm muscles for when you actually need them. This energy savings also translates to less strain on connective tissues, reducing instances of tendon and ligament damage.” (by Steve Edwards, DPMclimbing.com)