[國際攀岩資訊] Fastest ascent of the Nose (by Yuji Hirayama)
Yuji Hirayama(平山裕示)在2002年9月29日於Yosemite,以2小時48分55秒的時間爬完The Nose(on El Capitan)路線,為目前最快紀錄!
> a brief history below---
> THE NOSE:
> 1958 - first ascent took 12 days on the final push.
> (48 days of work over 18 months)
> 1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights)
> 1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.
> 1975 - a one day ascent was made.
> 1986 - the route was done in under 10 hours.
> 1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.
> 1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40
> 1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48
> 1992 - 4:22 became the record.
> 2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then
Time flies when you’re having fun! Yuji Hirayama, fresh from his lightening ascent of Salathe, has set a new speed record of the Nose together with local expert Hans Florine. The two raced to the top in a staggering 2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds, slashing time off Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neill’s 3:24:20 record established in 2001.
Starting at 7.15 am on 29 September the two simul-climbed for most of the route, at times free, at times using aid, and restocking gear only 5 times during the ascent. As Yuji led the pitches Hans followed, ensuring that the two moved as swiftly as possible to top out at 10:03am.
Hans is well known for his fast Valley climbs and this is his 46th ascent of the Nose. Experience counts for a lot during these ascents and, as he puts it, “more confidence, building on each other’s accomplishments, better gear, less gear and less weight” are the reason why times continue to get faster. We’ll have to wait and see if this new record can be broken, in the meantime though let\'s reflect on Hans’ final comment: “BOY IT WAS FUN! And rewarding!.” Congratulations.