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舊 2005-01-19, 20:04   #14
anmin
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註冊日期: 2003-05
住址: 太陽數過來第三顆石頭
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anmin
熱海岩場的「傳統攀登路線」

在基礎攀岩教本, John Long 所著 \"How to Rock Climb 3rd Ed--- How to Rock Climb Series\" 第四章有關軟岩質的保護有這幾段文字..

...有些岩楔是由硬質黃銅或甚至不鏽鋼製作的, 另一些岩楔則是包覆了一層軟黃銅所鑄造的. 如果岩質較差, 墜落時硬質岩楔比較會扯破周圍的岩石脫出; 而包覆黃銅的比較有延展性, \'比較不會\' 扯破岩石... 反觀如果岩質像鑽石一樣硬, 比較軟的岩楔有可能會被拉扯變形, 從岩縫中被拉出來... 許\多攀岩者是兩套都帶, 視路線情況來選擇使用哪一種.

...雞嘴 (三角楔) 在軟岩質的保護也是非常適合的, 雞嘴的 (三角) 支點剛好在受力時會埋入軟岩石...

原文..
Ropes, Anchors, and Belays==> Artificial Anchors-- Nuts==>Tapers==>
\"..... Some (tapers) are made of hard brass, even stainless steel; others are cast from \"investment cast\" brass. In a fall, the harder brass and stainless tends to break the surrounding rock away if the rock is poor. The investment brass is somewhat malleable, so it is less likely to break the rock and seat well owing to increased friction and bite. When the rock is diamond hard, the malleable brass taper may deform and shear through the placement, so there is a trade-off involved. Most practiced climbers carry both kinds and vary use according to the need.
....
Lowe Tri-cams==>
\".... Tri-cams also work well in desert sandstone, the (fulcrum) point digging into the soft rock. In certain shallow pocket placements, they have no peer.....\"
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