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舊 2011-09-21, 22:08   #2
大濟
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註冊日期: 1999-11
住址: Madison
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肩膀拮抗肌訓練

(版主,避免資料分散,請將我獨立的那一篇刪除,謝謝!)

肩膀受傷是攀岩者的夢魘,以下網站介紹一篇專門為攀岩設計的肩膀拮抗肌訓練,拮抗肌的訓練有助於避免受傷,有興趣的同好可參考參考:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/...mber-should-do

原文這一段頗值得參考:

“[W]e’re only going to address the shoulders. This region hosts the origin of almost every move that climbing begins with. And while it does not include the “money” area (the hands and forearms), biomechanical alignment problems will radiate to that area as well. This means that imbalances in the scapular region can lead to elbow, wrist, or even finger problems. Even though you rarely fail on a climb because your back or shoulders were pumped, strengthening these areas properly will shift more of each climbing movement’s burden to this region’s larger muscles, thus saving your smaller hand and forearm muscles for when you actually need them. This energy savings also translates to less strain on connective tissues, reducing instances of tendon and ligament damage.” (by Steve Edwards, DPMclimbing.com)

個人誠摯推薦這些動作。尤其喜歡抱石的朋友。抱石強調動態、腳踏空、瞬間抓磨檫點或小點、手交叉、橫向移動等,這些都對肩膀造成蠻大的壓力,作一些肩部拮抗肌的訓練很有幫助。

如果您是成年後才開始爬岩,而且喜歡爬難的動作,我會強力推薦這些動作(以及其它部位的拮抗肌訓練),不然受傷機會很高。拮抗肌訓練不吃力,也不難,只要有恆心、耐心的持續作,而拮抗肌的訓練越早開始越好。

至於肩部已經受傷的朋友,個人認為這些動作可當成復健的一部分,但一定要減輕重量及次數,原則上以不痛為主。

至於小朋友,如能爬到 5.10/V3,也可以開始作這些動作,分開作,一個星期一到二次,每次作一種或兩種,重量及次數酌量減輕。
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