Since the early 90's international climbing competitions have been held on a regular basis. Youth Competitions were a logical consequence with World Championships and the European Youth Cup (EYC) being held regularly. While adult competitions come in all disciplines such as technically difficulty climbing, speed climbing and bouldering, the youth competitions are only held on technically difficulty climbs. The ICC of UIAA approached MedCom UIAA to give a statement on the question of whether international youth bouldering competitions should be started.
MedCom UIAA does not support the idea of international youth bouldering competitions as the potential for long term medical damage is too high.
In technically difficult climbing competitions the main focus of the routes is on forearm strength-endurance, while bouldering demands maximum power moves. We already know that intensive climbing in youngsters leads to radiological changes, such as cortical hypertrophy, subchondral sclerosis etc. We found in our studies that all young athletes presenting with osteoarthrosis or epiphyseal fractures where focusing on maximum power training (e.g. Campus Board). Even if we do not have conclusive scientific proof that maximum power training such as campus Board� leads to osteoarthritic changes in the very young climbers, there seem to be adequate circumstantial evidence to suggest that this is the case.
These training methods cannot therefore be recommended in the age group below 18years. With international youth bouldering competitions the athletes would focus on training which has a very high impact on a still growing body and skeletal system. As juniors, 16 or older, can already take part in adult competitions we do not recommend introducing an international boulder competition, in a younger age group, to protect these kids from potential health damage.
感謝 IC 專業知識提供。我深為受傷所苦，所以特別感激這方面的專業知識。另，我把您刪除的參考文獻貼上來，希望 IC 兄不介意。臺灣青少年的運動攀登風氣也許正方興未艾，希望有心同好能找到它們並提供給臺灣的攀岩界：
１）Schlegel Ch., Schöffl V.: Statement Epiphyseal Fractures in Adolescent Climbers, MedCom UIAA in preparation
２）Hochholzer Th., Schöffl V., Bischof B. :Epiphysenfrakturen der Fingermittelgelenke bei Sportkletterern. Sport Orthop.Traumatol. 18, (2), 87 – 92, 2002
３）Schoeffl V, Hochholzer Th, Karrer A, Winter S, Imhoff A: Fingerschäden jugendlicher Leistungskletterer – Vergleichende Analyse der deutschen Jugendnationalmannschaft sowie einer gleichaltrigen Vergleichsgruppe von Freizeitkletterern. Deutsche Zeitschrift für Sportmedizin 54: 317-322, 2003
４）Schoeffl V, Hochholzer Th, Imhoff A: Radiographic Changes in the Hands and Fingers of Young, High Level Climbers. Am J Sport Med in print
５）Hochholzer Th, Schöffl V ：One move to many – How to understand the injuries and overuse syndromes of rock climbing, Lochner Verlag, Ebenhausen. 2003
其中，（５）是一本書。我用 Bookfinder 找不到，UM-Madison 的圖書館好像也沒有（還在努力找，找到會看一下並介紹給大家）。（４）是一篇期刊論文，出版時我會去圖書館拷貝下來（可惜無 Internet 連結），寄給有興趣的人。如臺灣有 “American Journal of Sports Medicine” 這本期刊，（４）的文章將會刊在上面，那就不用寄了。其它的好像是德文，小弟無法度。
〔英文摘要〕The rapidly growing interest in sports climbing in recent years among young climbers raises the question about the risk of injuries and overstrain syndromes in this group. This paper investigates injuries and overstrain syndromes of 99 adolescent climbers aged between 8 and 19 years. The authors interviewed climbers from Austria, Germany and Switzerland. Besides the type and pattern of injuries and overstrain syndromes, the level and duration of climbing, intensity of training and gender were recorded as potential risk factors. 47 climbers were asked about setting up fingers on small holds, which is considered a main reason for epiphyseal injuries of fingers in the literature. Injuries and overstrain syndromes, as well as their frequency and pattern are reported and classified. Descriptive data analysis and statistical models are used to assess the influence of risk factors. Among the potential risk factors only the climbing level has a significant influence on the risk of injuries and overstrain syndromes (p = 0.0427). Furthermore the risk of injuries and overstrain syndromes in the area of the fingers is significantly higher for climbers who reported setting up fingers on small holds (OR = 8.24, p = 0.0022). Finally we found a higher frequency of injuries and overstrain syndromes in lower extremities (43% of all injury and overstrain occurrences) and a lower frequency of injuries and overstrain syndromes in general (43% of all the climbers under investigation) compared to other studies. As a result special guidelines for training and competition are given. In order to increase the accuracy of the reports and to investigate long-term effects we recommend a study with clinical assessment and a longer period of observation.
上述的以下兩篇文章已向 UW-Madison 的圖書館申請 PDF 檔。如收到，會想辦法貼上來，讓大家作個參考：
１）Schoffl V. Hochholzer T. Imhoff A. “Radiographic changes in the hands and fingers of young, high-level climbers.” American Journal of Sports Medicine. 32(7):1688-94, 2004 Oct-Nov.
２）Pfeifer C. Messner K. Scherer R. Hochholzer T. “Injury pattern and overuse stress syndrome in young sport climbers.” [German] Wiener Klinische Wochenschrift. 112(22):965-72, 2000 Nov 24.
１）作者的結論是基於所謂的「統計上顯著不顯著」標準。我唸社會科學（當然，唸的不太通），社會科學也常常強調「統計上顯著不顯著」。但有一句名言：「Lies, God dame lies and statistics」﹣﹣ 意即統計上的結論是基於想像的大數母群，而大數母群往往是不存在的，所以結論往往在說謊。我不知醫學界所用的統計工具和社會科學一不一樣。無論如何，我會比較看樣本本身的詮釋，而不去看所謂的「統計上顯著不顯著」。這篇報告就樣本而言，二組手指關節的差異是蠻大的。作者強調這是一種「適應變化」（並沒有提出有力的佐證），但卻也也強調是不是病症需要長期觀察。那，所謂的「適應變化」倒底是不是未來可能的病症源？