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舊 2005-02-12, 05:33   #1
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6 Mental WingsTM Strategies to Unlock Your Hidden Powers
(An excerpt from Eric's upcoming book, Training For Climbing, to be published in December 2002)

原著者:Eric J. Hörst
翻譯:鐵馬山社OB 柯惠平
校稿:鐵馬山社 山友 洪妍珮

The quickest way to enhance your performance in almost anything is to improve the quality of your thinking. This is definitely true in climbing whether you're working a high-ball boulder problem, sport route, multi-pitch traditional line, or alpine route. All performance operates from the inside-out--your beliefs, focus, emotions, and confidence form the foundation from which you will either succeed or fail.

對大部份的事情而言,最快增加你表現的方式去,是加強你的思考品質。對攀岩而言也是如此,不論你是在練習抱石攀岩、運動攀登、多繩距傳統攀登或阿爾卑斯式攀登。所有的成績表現都是由內而外的 - 你的信念、專注、情緒及信心都是決定你成功或失敗的基礎。

While off-season strength training and year-round technique training are paramount for progressing into the higher grades, during the climbing season your biggest breakthroughs will come from toning and flexing your mental muscle. To this end, I have outlined below six mental strategies and skills that will help elevate your performance and enjoyment.


Practice them with the same dedication and resolve as you would a new strength training program, and you'll be pleasantly surprised with the results. Obtain the greatest payoff by applying these skills all the time, not just when you feel like it. For some, an almost instant breakthrough will follow on the rock, while others will need to persist and let these mental skills build to a critical value before they will produce a noticeable impact in your climbing. (This depends upon the current degree of "tone" or "atrophy" of your mental muscle.")


Recognize that these six mental training skills are interlaced and can produce a powerful synergy when all are in practice. In aggregate, they may produce an effect similar to unloading a 10-pound weight from your back that you have unknowingly been hauling up climbs. I call this using your "mental wings."


1. Separate your self-image from your performance.

If you are reading this magazine, then climbing surely plays a major role in your life. Unfortunately, when your self-image is tied too strongly or singly to this role, it translates to an overwhelming need to perform perfectly every time in order to prove your worth in that role and, thus, as a person. The subsequent pressure can become stifling and is maybe the single greatest cause of frustration in this sport (or in any endeavor).

Human beings perform best in a process-oriented, not outcome-oriented, frame of mind. Detaching your self-image from your climbing performance allows you to enjoy climbing regardless of the outcome. More importantly, it liberates you to try new things, take chances or, say, throw a dyno that might be required to get through a crux sequence. Bottom line: self-image detachment will reduce pressure and anxiety and, paradoxically, you'll climb better by not needing to!

1. 將你的自我印像(認知)與你的表現分離

如果你正在讀這本雜誌,那麼攀岩在你的生活中一定扮演了重要的角色。不幸的是,當你過分重視或只重視自己在這角色,所呈現出的形象,這將轉變成極大壓力,使你在任何時間都必須有完美的表現,來證明你在這角色中的價值,甚至是你個人的價。這隨之而來的壓力會令人難以忍受,或許也會造成你在攀岩中最大挫折的來源 (甚至是對任何事)。


2. Surround yourself with positive people.

There is an aura or influence that surrounds each of us and its effects are based on our personality and attitude towards life and its events. Your thoughts and actions will affect the thoughts and actions of those around you, and vice versa. As I see it, there are three options-either climb alone, climb with upbeat and positive people, or climb with cynical and negative people. Why would you ever want to climb with the "complainers" out there? Their negative aura impacts your climbing and enjoyment whether you recognize it or not. Vow to either climb with positive individuals or by yourself-both can be hugely rewarding. However, if pushing your limits is the goal du jour, then take advantage of the synergy afforded to you by having creative, motivating and positive people on your side.

2. 多與心態正面的人相處在一起

有一種氣息或影響力圍繞著我們每一個人,它也影響著我們的人格和面對生活及問題的態度。你的想法及行動將影響你周圍人的想法及行動,反過來說也是如此。正如我所看到的,這有三個選擇,獨攀、與正面樂觀的人一起攀登或與負面悲觀的人一起。你怎麼可能會想要去跟愛抱怨的人一起攀登呢? 他們的負面態度,將會影響你攀登的樂趣與表現,不管你是否有注意到。要求自己在攀登時與正面思想的人在一起或自己也成俱正面思想的人,這將帶給你極大的幫助。不論如何,如果推到極限是你的當前的目標,那麼請藉由群體合作方式,使你有一群具有創造力、有活力、及正面思想的人在身邊!

3. Stretch your comfort zone.

To improve in anything, your goals must exceed your current grasp and you must be willing to push beyond your comfort zone in your reach. In performing on the vertical plain, this means climbing onward despite mental and physical discomfort; it means challenging your fears head on by doing what you fear; it means attempting what looks impossible to you through your current set of "glasses." Through this process, you stretch the envelope to a new dimension and reshape your personal vision of what is possible.

3. 擴展你的適應


4. Assess and proactively manage your risk.

Climbing is an activity with obvious inherent risks, and the desire to climb harder requires taking additional risks. These risks can come in the form of obvious physical danger such as a potentially injurious fall or as invisible mental risks like opening yourself up to failure, criticism and embarrassment. It's interesting to note that for some climbers the physical danger feels more benign than the aforementioned mental dangers. Consider the climber who continues upward on a horrendously dangerous route he's not prepared for because he's afraid of being dissed by those standing safely on the ground!

Make it your goal to always assess the range of possible risks before you ever start a climb. By objectively analyzing the risks ahead of time, you'll often be able to lower the risk of the climb (e.g. taking other gear or rigging a belay differently than you normally would) and, at the least, be aware and able to respond to the most critical risks as you climb.




5. Fortify your confidence.

Your degree of self-confidence is primarily based on your self-image and the thoughts you hold minute-by-minute and day-by-day. Thoughts of falls or poor performance in the past and self-talk loaded with words like "I can't", "don't", "possibly", and "try", lower confidence and are the seeds of failure. Conversely, focusing on past successes by actually visualizing and feeling the process and exhilaration of positive action leads to tremendous feelings of confidence. Using visualization throughout the day, everyday, to re-live great events in your past--climbing and non-climbing--is the best way to reshape and fortify your self-confidence for success in all future endeavors.

5. 鞏固你的自信


6. Be happy regardless of situations and outcomes.

Superior traits of all real winners is resilience to bad results and/or criticism, and unwavering belief that success will come with time, effort and patience. Attitude is the wild card in the "climbing performance equation" that can often compensate for what you are lacking in strength, technique or reach. I can't understate the importance of always having fun. We all get into climbing because we love the outdoor experience and the feeling of moving over stone, yet in time far too many climbers become Grinches (spoilsports) who have fun only when they are winning.

6. 保有快樂不去在意你的現況及攀登結果


The biggest secret for better climbing is to love climbing unconditionally. Vow that any day of climbing is a great day regardless of the results, and you will usually get the results you desire.


In my 25 years as a climber, perhaps the biggest breakthrough occurred when I realized that almost all the mental skills and strategies I learned through climbing could be applied to other areas in my life. (Read the first line of the 6 tips above--don't they all apply equally well to your non-climbing life?) I believe the process of climbing reveals the ultimate metaphors for life and, if you transfer the many lessons and mental skills to other areas of your life, you'll ignite breakthroughs there as well. I wish you the best on the rock and in your pursuit of your own personal Mount Everest!

在我25年的攀岩者生涯中,最大的收獲是,我經由學習攀岩體會到的心智技巧及策略,能將其經驗應用在生活之中其他的領域。(閱讀先前的六項技巧 – 他們不是同樣可以用在非攀岩的環境之下嗎?)我相信,攀岩過程展現隱藏在生命中的潛力,同時如果你轉換你的訓練方式及心智技巧,在你生活中的其他領域,你將獲得更大的突破。但願你在岩壁上有最好的表現同時攀登上你個人心中的聖母峰。
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